A sand bagger - strip-planked

Wow, Casa - it really is nice!

Although it does look very modern, perhaps it's the very low freeboards (and the carbon, hehe).

I have no knowledge of any danish tradition with regards to "old" racing workboats, to be frank. But you're right if it's the clinker-build you're thinking of.

There's no ballast? Not even a dagger board with a little weight? Excuse me for asking a stupid question, but that seems a bit too much "racing" for my taste.

The "coating" on that bagger - is that epoxy with varnish on top, or something else? It looks awesome, and right now I'm torn between the yachty look of that, and matt-white since that seems more in keeping with the one I intend to build. But then again, it's for show, I'm making it nice to look at

 

Ah, I was so focused on the pictures, I forgot to read properly.

Is the planks covered with some see-through cloth, or? And is the planks themselves mahogany, or how did you get that awesome hull finish? I mean, I even like the tacks or screws is visible.

 

I agree, it's a very good looking boat!
Glass cloth, woven, 160-200g/m2 is "invisible".

 

Nice, Raggi - could be something to consider, or perhaps a black?

As it is, right now I'm looking at pictures of the sandbagger "Annie"

http://www.mysticseaport.org/research/ru-annie2.cfm?mid=130

and this

http://www.mysticseaport.org/research/ru-annie2.cfm?mid=132

 

Annie is also good looking.
Remember black can be very hot, and epoxy starts getting soft at 60-70(?) degrees.

 

oh, yeah, I forgot that

Although ... I'm living in denmark .. hell, I should be more worried about the cold, he he.

Nah, you're right, that could be a problem.

I'm contemplating my plans. Thinking if I should make the finish a bit more yachtie as the one Marco build, as oppose to make it more of a fast fishing vessel, so to speak.

Dammit, Marco!!

Btw, marco, am I right in thinking that those sausages are what gives it flotation, and not the watertight bulkheads?

How does it sail? Is it a very wet ride?

(the reason I ask is because I'm contemplating foregoing the extra plank I had imagined I would make, and that wave-breaker looks like it's necessary).

 

Hm, come to think of it, maybe one could use some thin, flexible mahogany plywood to get that sort of finish?

Man, so many questions, sorry about that.

 

Andre,
the boat I have built is totally unballasted. It's exceptionally well mannered and stable but still a high performance centerboarder. If you search the Woodenboat Magazine Index you may find an article about the first boat built in USA, search for STEALTH DINGHY.
The hull is Honduras Mahogany, there is no glass , only epoxy and two pack polyurethane varnish.
There are two watertight plywood bulkheads, one at the aft end of the cockpit and one 50 cm. aft the mast. gate.
Planking a wide boat like a sandbagger is very difficult because the planks have to take a lot of twist in the forefoot region.
That's why I was suggesting the glued lapstrake method as plywood takes twist more easily.
My hull is 10 mm. thick, is immensely strong ( unnecessarily strong ) but I needed the thickness because the strips are blind nailed into the ribs so the nails dont show.
With glued plywood lapstrake you can get along with 8 or even 6 mm. mahogany plywood: the resulting hull will be much lighter.
Of course I am referring to this particular S&S design.
Marco

 

Thanks for your answer (on the mail as well), Marco.

I have just ordered the issue from woodenboat. Also number 130-something, which seems to have something about bagger.

I have another question, though, I hope you can answer:

You say you used no cloth, but did you then use "old-style" planking, only narrower, but the traditional way where there narrower in the middle, and wider at the ends, etc?
Of course, I hope that some of this info will be in the magazine, but I'm thinking you might have had the planks themselves done the traditional way, yet with bead and cove as well, to make them tight?

 

The hull is strip planked but the strips are not constant in section. Instead they are all equally tapered fore and aft, i.e. wider in the middle and narrower at bow and stern.
Marco.

 

Oh, like that. Very cool. I assume you made a bead and cove then? Or maybe, as I've read in a book about canoe strip planking, they're just "corrected" with a plane (angle-wise)?

Sorry to ask so many questions, I wish I could buy you a beer, and we could talk while having that - that way it might not seem like the inquisition.

Sincerely,

Andre

 

yes, bead and cove were routed after tapering the strips.
The Stealth Dinghy featured in the article on Woodenboat Magazine was built in glass/durakore strips.
Marco.

 

The happy village-idjit I am, I just wanted to tell that I have finally found a place to build.

It's a small place, and weirdly enough I have to do the lofting etc. in the basement of this place. Then when I have made the frames etc. I need to carry the lot up, and set it up for the planking and so on. It's not perfect but at least it's a place.

 

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