| ||||
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| Replacing/Redesigning Cockpit Sole Hey all, I've got a 1959 Glaspar Seafair. The previous owner had added foam and fuel tanks in the bilges and put in a new cockpit sole covering it all. Over the years he had it the foam gradually soaked up water that found its way into the bilges. I am looking, at a minimum, to take up the cabin sole, pull out the foam and the PVC pipe tanks, then replace everything, and put a new cabin sole in. On the other end of things I'm considering getting some foam blocks and sculpting a mold for a new cockpit sole with some seats and lockers built in. Problem is I have never done any of this and I don't know if I should or how to go about cutting everything loose and reattaching it. Any advice?
__________________ Jason USCG Auxiliary FSO-CS Gloucester Point, VA Support the RNLI (http://www.rnli.org.uk/how_to_support_us) Support the USCG Auxiliary (http://www.cgaux.org) |
|
#2
| ||||
| ||||
| I guess I'd advise you not sculpt foam ro make shapes but use plywood, which holds screws well. In other words, what was fast and cheap for the manufacturer is not fast and cheap for you. Most changes in structure and layout are done by different methods than the original (except with wood boats). Like building the cockpit sole first and then adding parts to it. Unless you want to become a fiberglass mold maker and could use the practice, in which case it would be good experience. Alan |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| Cut out the floor, Replace stringers as need be with treated wood or preferably molded fiberglass stringers. Replace the floor with 1/2 or 3/4 plywood. AC is fine, Marine ply is a bit of overkill in my opinion but others will have thier own opinions. Fiberglass over the top of the sole with several layers of matte well applied. If you desire a smoother finish alternate layers of cloth but you are building up thickness not really providing strength. The most important thing is to provide ventilation from the sealed chamber you are creating. Water will get down there and it needs a way to get out. An access plate or two is not a bad idea either. Once you get the old floor out and the crud cleaned out of the bottom the boys will walk you through the rest. A sawzall and a grinder are helpful tools. It all sounds harder than it is. You can easily do it in a weekend or two. As for supplies, besides the obvious, I would estimate somewhere between a 6 pack and a 1/2 case.
__________________ If this is tourist season, why can't we shoot them? |
|
#4
| ||||
| ||||
| try this
__________________ Can anyone spare any gas today for a hamburger on Friday ??? |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| similar issue...but not quite I have an old Sonar that needs a new cockpit sole. At the moment it is flattened and cracked. I assume this is because of a prior repair where the sole wasn't backed properly by bulkheads. Anyway, what I am wondering is how to figure out what the camber of the deck is...or is supposed to be. I want to replace the bulkheads under the sole so this doesn't happen again and I want there to be a bit of camber for runoff. Any ideas? |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Redesigning for fishing use. | roofus5 | Boat Design | 9 | 05-22-2008 10:45 AM |
| The Dreaded cockpit sole Dilema!!! | grady | Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building | 11 | 11-27-2006 09:46 AM |
| teak to fiberglass cockpit sole installation | grady | Materials | 0 | 10-30-2006 10:17 PM |
| removal of molded cockpit sole from a viking 40 | brewersgold@com | Boatbuilding | 14 | 07-12-2006 09:53 PM |
| Cockpit Sole above Waterline height? | Seafarer24 | Sailboats | 8 | 06-25-2006 01:48 PM |