replace old stringers

[65 flatbottom]

i am in the process of removing my worn stringers and have found that from the bow to just after the v-drive they are sold but back where the motor mounts it is rotton. is there any way to remove just the rotton area or should i just replace the whole thing. and i am a little nervous considering i only have two stringers in the boat and do not want to knock the boat out of wack any help with this would be great. thanks

[marshmat]

Hi there,

Well, welcome aboard boatdesign.net.... you've come to the right place for rotted stringers, that's for sure. This exact problem comes up about once a week, so you're not alone.

There's a wealth of advice on how to handle this problem:
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sea...archid=1456232
Grab a coffee, take your laptop out to the porch, kick back and start reading. There's something like 70 to 100 threads worth of discussion from people who have already been through this exact repair. If that doesn't scare you off, then let the project begin

[blaze_125]

I agree with marshmat. The subject is well covered on this board. Most of the time people word the questions differently than you would so you think you're not reading the right thing while you actually are.

I, myself, have a thread about stringer/transom replacement. PAR has made a huge contribution to the thread and you may find some of the answers you're looking for:
Transom & Stringer replacement

I'm a complete noob when it comes to boat repairs so I have plenty of questions in there with plenty of answers.

is there any way to remove just the rotton area or should i just replace the whole thing

With what I've seen around here so far, do the whole thing. I've read stringers should be one peice as much as possible, and joints are weak. On top of that, you never know how rotten the wood is until you take samples from various locations. Anyhow, I'm no expert. More knowledgeable people will soon get in here and point you in the right direction. But have a look at my thread, maybe it'll give you a head start.

[65 flatbottom]

Originally Posted by marshmat

Hi there,

Well, welcome aboard boatdesign.net.... you've come to the right place for rotted stringers, that's for sure. This exact problem comes up about once a week, so you're not alone.

There's a wealth of advice on how to handle this problem:
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sea...archid=1456232
Grab a coffee, take your laptop out to the porch, kick back and start reading. There's something like 70 to 100 threads worth of discussion from people who have already been through this exact repair. If that doesn't scare you off, then let the project begin

thanks for the insight

[65 flatbottom]

Originally Posted by blaze_125

I agree with marshmat. The subject is well covered on this board. Most of the time people word the questions differently than you would so you think you're not reading the right thing while you actually are.

I, myself, have a thread about stringer/transom replacement. PAR has made a huge contribution to the thread and you may find some of the answers you're looking for:
Transom & Stringer replacement

I'm a complete noob when it comes to boat repairs so I have plenty of questions in there with plenty of answers.


With what I've seen around here so far, do the whole thing. I've read stringers should be one peice as much as possible, and joints are weak. On top of that, you never know how rotten the wood is until you take samples from various locations. Anyhow, I'm no expert. More knowledgeable people will soon get in here and point you in the right direction. But have a look at my thread, maybe it'll give you a head start.

i will take a look at your theard. thank you. and that is what i thought replace the whole thing damn o well

[blaze_125]

building stringers

[PAR]

You can scarf the stringers to known good wood. You should "unload" the structure by removing the engine and drive, plus any other big stuff like tanks if they weight a good bit. The replacement wood should the same species or one of similar physical properties.

The scarf should be 8:1 if using epoxy or 10:1 to 12:1 if using other types of adhesives. The scarf should go with the grain and on the taller dimension of the stringers. I've seen them done the other way, but I've never trusted them without "doubler" plates attached to either side.