Razor sharp paint lines

Hey Guys

I was wondering what tips you have to share to accomplish super clean paint edge lines, particularly when doing a two color non skid paint job.

I already use 3m 218 Fine line tape but find there is still some paint creep at random places along a long straight tape run and at the corners where one piece of tape overlaps the next.

I am super careful to rub the edge down several times with my finger but Im wondering I'm missing something or some trick

Thanks

 

What kind of paint are you using?

 

Not really had any problem with reasonable quality masking tape to get good edges. For some really detailed areas (relatively small) you might find 'Frisk' film useful - it is an artists masking film used for airbrush renderings. You may have a different trade name for it but good commercial art supply places will stock an equivalent. Use the back of your finger nail to press the edge (in contact) down sweetly and ensure no trapped hairs etc.

Sometimes you need to peel off the masking in a relatively short time after spraying. Say 20-30 minutes to get a good (or better) clean edge. I've done a few fancy 4/5 colour way schemes on the outside of dinghy hulls, all in 2k with no problem.

 

Fine line is the right choice, but it's usually the prep that is the problem. Even with the best tape, if the surface it's perfectly smooth and clean, some bleed is possible. An old trick is to apply the tape then apply a light coat, just around the tape, of color that's under the tape. When this is dry, paint with the color your intend to separate from the base color. The idea is, if there is some bleeding, it's the same color, so isn't noticeable and when the tape is removed, the line is a crisp top coat. Also burnish the tape good, so it's got solid contact.

In this country we call it "Frisket" which is a brand name for masking film. It has a very low tack and will allow bleed if paint is heavily applied. What it's good at is detail work, where it needs to be cut in place with some precision. It works with aerosols and air brushes, because the paint is applied in a "dusting" fashion (if done correctly), which doesn't tend to bleed.

Another trick is to use a dry brush technique around the tape. This is simply applying a very light coat along the taped edges with just enough paint to seal the edges. A nearly dry brush of paint is what works. Any time a pool of paint stands against tape, you run the risk of some bleed under, so thin very light coats along the tape, as you can go back and add more once the first coat goes off and has sealed the tape edge.

 

Gonzo - The Paint is Awlgrip

Thanks for the feedback guys

I did roll the paint for the nonskid and it did get heavy on the tape line in places

I found where there were radius's and one piece overlapped the next that burnishing the tape did not prevent a bleed.
I will try the dry brush technique next time

Thanks

 

When masking deck moulds for the non skid gelcoat I found stretching and firmly applying the fine line it went around the corners in one piece no joins. Isn't that why you pay so much for it ?

 

The fine line style of tape is a vinyl tape, much like electrical tape, but with a different adhesive. It bends very well around the tightest radius and has good "grab" to most surfaces. Bleed under can always be traced back to heavy pools of paint laying on the tape line and/or less than nearly sanitary surfaces it's applied to. Simply put, it can't stick to dirt or dust. Overlaps in the tape are best handled by cutting the overlaying piece flush, in a butt joint and placing another short piece over this joint to seal it. This permits the tape to lay flat with protection from above.

 

The solvent on Awlgrip dissolves the adhesive on the cheaper tape. It would be a good idea to call the tape manufacturer about it.