Hello, I have been reading some forums for alittle bit and I am just about to get into glassing for both my sub boxes and I would like to try to do some body panels (bumpers, etc.). I know this is a boat glassing forum, but I am reallt interested in fiberglassing my trucks box, hood, quarter panels, etc. and I thought that this would be really similar to boat glassing. So any help would be apprecaited. I would like to use the best stuff I can possible use and not cut cornors. I have all the tools I believe, but I am just wondering to exactly which products should I use and for what? It seems like eproxy resins are tougher and better, correct? So I should use this resin for both panels and sub boxes? Should I use anything different for dash and kick panels? Should I be doing something different with sub boxes and dash stuff compared to body panels (would body panels ie. hood bumber, flares, be built stronger?) How many layers should I use, what mat? Mekp hardener I have already. Exactly what is rage gold for? I also read that EB general purpose resin (or the premium) is the best to use. What is the difference between that and premium polyester layup resin? I would rather spend the extra money and get the better stuff. Thanks alot, really appreciate it if you could even answer 1 question or point me to the answer, thanks!
Here's my $0.02 worth on your issue:
Resins- yes, go with epoxy. Ideally something like West System, it's pretty easy to use, and very strong. For what you're doing I wouldn't bother with anything else. *-ester resins can be hard to learn with for a newbie, and if you screw up the catalyst ratio by one drop they won't work right. Always use a compatible hardener (follow manufacturer's instructions!); mekp is for polyester NOT epoxy. Get West System's how-to booklets (usually free or $1) from your dealer for more on how to use the resin.
Laminate structures: You will encounter several main types of fibreglass:
Mat or CSM - short, random chopped strands; good filler between different layers but not very strong
Cloth - woven strands, fairly fine weave; general purpose material that you'll use for most things (6-14 oz/yd is common for home-build work)
Roving - like cloth but much coarser and looser; heavier than cloth (10-26 oz/yd would be typical weights for do-it-yourself)
Veil - very fine fibre, to prevent print-through of cloth pattern to a surface, not usually structural
You might also find glass tapes useful- these are just narrow pieces of cloth with the edges done in such a way as to prevent them from fraying, they're used for joints between panels. Exactly how to combine these is the black art of the composites engineering team. For stuff like your speaker boxes, you usually eyeball it. For more complex parts a bit of math and experience is in order.
If you have a bit of computer and engineering knowledge, VLAM software (free, http://vectorply.com/lamdesign/vectorlam_sw.htm ) can be helpful for figuring out what laminates will meet your needs. If talk of transverse shear moduli scares you off (or even if it doesn't), check your local public library for books on fibreglass or fibreglass boatbuilding. Good luck!
M. B. Marsh Design
The Marsh Fleet: Small-craft cruising on the waterways of Ontario and beyond
If youre the dude that was in Smithcraft the other day, GO BACK, there are classes available. Im the the guy they said should know it all. NOT
Can anyone spare any gas today for a hamburger on Friday ???
I just found your site by luck, while look into fiberglassing and asked some questions, never even heard of you before, but could be an interesting site.
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Solar panels||gonzo||Electrical Systems||3||01-10-2006 07:19 PM|
|Freeship plywood panels||Deering||Software||10||12-04-2005 02:42 PM|
|Unsightly Panels||aitchem||Metal Boat Building||3||12-01-2005 07:05 AM|
|flat table3 panels||gasdok007||Boat Design||0||11-11-2004 10:02 PM|
|Solar Panels||sunshinesolar||Boat Design||0||08-27-2004 02:49 PM|