Paint for Patterned Non-slip Deck

[jonboy834]

I woiuld like to ask the forum for help to find best paint for our cockpit and deck areas on our 22 year-old Tartan 42.
Unfortunately we do not have spray facility, so must brush or roller.
Non-slip is molded-in diamond pattern so sanding between coats would not reach into the "valleys".
Does anyone have good experience with a rollered-on paint?
PS Imron says only spray-on is possible with their two-part Polyurethane.
Regards,
John

[Corpus Skipper]

I've used Interlux polyurethanes and been pleased with the results. Good sanding is required for good adhesion no matter what you use or how it's applied.

I used System three two part polyurethane on some nonskid areas of my S2 about a year ago and so far it still looks good, no peeling. I scrubbed the area with a stiff brush and Comet cleaner. I figured that was as close to sanding I could get on the textured surface. I followed with a TSP solution, then painted. I found a brush worked better than the roller on the nonskid. The roller had trouble getting paint down into the bottom of the pattern without putting way too much paint on. Wait for a cool overcast day to paint. Direct sun light and heat causes the paint to dry too fast, brush marks don't have time to flow out. On the smooth areas I used a foam roller I found at Lowes. It looks real ugly when first applied but it flows out nice and smooth before it dries ( cool overcast weather is real important here). The areas I painted look perfect from 10 ft away but you can find some flaws if you look close.

[jonboy834]

Originally Posted by Corpus Skipper

Good sanding is required for good adhesion no matter what you use or how it's applied.

Thanks for the advice!
I still don't quite see how to sand molded-in non-skid?
It is a random pattern, about 1/16" deep in the valleys. Light sanding would appear to remove the "peaks" without touching the "valleys". More aggressive sanding would remove the non-skid pattern entirely - and the gel-coat too.
Please advise if this is what you recommend?
Regards.

[Corpus Skipper]

I scrubbed the area with a stiff brush and Comet cleaner

This will work well for the nonskid areas, just be sure to wash away all the cleaner, and wipe down with thinner/tack rags.

[JR-Shine]

We carry the system 3 LPU paint and our builders have good things to say about. Its very easy to work with (compared to your other options)

Joel
Boatbuildercentral.com

[DGreenwood]

I have pulled this off with Awlgrip put on in thin coats so as not to fill the valleys. I scrubbed the surface with ultra-fine scotchbrite pad and acetone and cleaned up thoroughly afterwards. Get some pro coaching on the Awlgrip or any other LPUs. It is easy to apply as long as the paint is mixed to suit the application method and the temperature. It will still result in a somewhat slick surface. I found it OK with deck shoes but when wet and in bare feet it is slippery.

Originally Posted by jonboy834

I woiuld like to ask the forum for help to find best paint for our cockpit and deck areas on our 22 year-old Tartan 42.
Unfortunately we do not have spray facility, so must brush or roller.
Non-slip is molded-in diamond pattern so sanding between coats would not reach into the "valleys".
Does anyone have good experience with a rollered-on paint?
PS Imron says only spray-on is possible with their two-part Polyurethane.
Regards,
John

I just went through this a few months ago in the cock pit area of my sport fisher. A few important things here.. DONT sand your diamond pattern. There is no need. If the old paint is peeling, lay down a product called peel away, available at ace hard ware or paint or hard ware stores. It will lift up a coat of old paint. Dont use the removers that say harmful to fibergalss. Peel away will not damage the glass. If its gel coat dont worry so much. Go to your local chandelry, or west marine and pick up a gallon of Petit Easy Poxy, or interlux Topsides. At least petit is one part. read the instructions, I think it says prime for non painted. I would pick up a gallon of primer. Some other suggestions about cleaning with TSP is probably a good idea. There is a product called bar keepers friend I use to scrub the black marks off the side of the hull. Use sparingly, its 2 bucks for a large comet sized container.

Once you cleaned and scrubbed enough, lay down the primer, if you decide to use. Follow instrucitons on the can about dry times etc. I bought a foam roller at ace hardware and rolled it on and was done in no time. It looked as good as if I paid someone to do it. (At least the floor does) The paint rolls on real real thick so dont soak the roller much. The foam absorbs pretty good anyway. Since you are doing the floor area, you need not worry about drips. I also used a thinner, as this paint dries real quick. Also buy the expensive foam roller (yellow color at ace hardware) as this paint reacts with the foam and the cheap ones came off of their metal holder.

The last and most improtant thing is buy some non skid additive. This is also an interlux product. If you dont add this, when the diamond pattern gets wet, it will be slippery as hell. I didnt use this though so I dont know how it will look or react. I wish I had though. I didnt sand between coats using any of hte above paints or products. As I recall, instucitons didnt call for it.

I might actually recommend leaving the diamond pattern alone and dont paint, especially if its not painted. Just scrub it down with a cleanser..


good luck