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#1
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| Orange tooling Gel help New to the forum and new to working with fiberglass. My situation. Our water ski club (non-profit) just took delivery of a fiberglass water ski jump surface. The surface consists of 3 8X14 foot 100% fiberglass panels. The three sheets are fastened to the steel frame of the jump using 1/4 inch bolts countersunk into the surface. My volunteer job is to figure out how to fill the countersunk holes and also to fill the seams where the panels come together. Panel gaps vary from tight to up to an 1/8 of an inch. Panels are made from "orange tooling gel". If anybody on this fourm could offer any advice or point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim |
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#2
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| maybe u should not join the panels together with glass as the jump will have a lot of vibration and the bond may breck |
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#3
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| Possible. The panels are 3/8's of an inch thick and the frame is heavy steel. No movement. The main reason I need to fill the cracks is to create a smooth, no lip surface between the panels. |
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#4
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| alright i see, first bolt her all down, take a grinder and remove a u shape channel along the joints about 6 inches 3 per side then lay up fiberglass and then fill with gelcoat and sand and polsh big job. |
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#5
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| quick way is just fill the holes with some gel, and sand the joints flat if its well secure to the frame it should be ok |
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#6
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| Thanks Fiberglass Jack. Just a couple of more questions. Where is the best place to get "orange tooling gel"? I have read that I will need to use a wax (sanding aid). True? Thanks again. Jim |
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#7
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| any fiberglass sulply store will have it , make sure u say orange it comes in many colors and the orange they give u might not match, see if the guys u bought the panels can give u some, u will need to add 2% airdry way to the gel this will let it dry tack free and easy to sand, dont forget hardner as well, if u are buying the gel ask them to add the wax tell them what u are doing this way u wont have the grief of adding wax too much its rubbery to little says tacky |
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#8
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| Quote:
How does the CTE of FRP panels compare to that of concrete?
__________________ Are we off-topic yet? |
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#9
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| all the outdoor waterslides here in canada hold up good -40 to plus 40 |
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#10
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| Why was it that these panels were made with tooling gel coat? I'm thinking you just happened to find some already made panels for a good price and decided to use them because tooling gel doesn't weather well. It's not formulated for UV, or water restistance, so the surface will become dull and start chalking much sooner than a gel coat designed for outdoor use. I'm not saying it won't work, other than cosmetics it should hold up fine. |
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#11
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| looks like some flatsheet mould for making panels he probally picked them up cheap, where u get them |
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#12
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| Florida The panels are specifically built for water ski jumps by a company in Florida. They have been used succesfully in this application for many years and are far from cheap. Because jumpers need consistancy from ramp to ramp at tournaments this type of panel from this company has become the standard. I can only conclude that years ago they chose orange tooling gel and never changed it. International water ski jumping rules do require an orange surface. One more quick question. What is the proper way to clean the panels before we do any gelcoat work? I read somewhere that acetone is a good cleaner for this but I want to confirm before we use it. |
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#13
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| acetone will work also styrine |
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#14
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| Tja Hello, The other reason the seams need to be filled is so the water spray system at the top of the ramp works properly. The water has to traval from the top all the way to the bottom. What you don't want to use is some type of caulk as the skies will catch and that could hurt. I built a custom jump about fifteen years ago and after it was bolted down I glassed the seams. Since your bolts go through from the top make sure that you use stainless bolts. If a bolt breaks and comes up and you don't see it you can catch a ski. That is what happened to the owner of the one that I built before he had me make one that attached from the bottom. He suffered a broken leg. So inspect your ramp regularly. Good luck. |
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#15
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| Thank you tja, you are correct on all counts. We use a 1/2 hp sprinkler pump on shore with a hose running out to the jump. A 1/2 inch pvc pipe runs along the top with holes drilled in it. Water then lubricates the entire surface when we are jumping. Once installed and we glass the seams we will then apply a thin coat of USA Waterski jump wax. Application is done by hand with an cheap iron (not my wifes). Fastening is being done with 1/4 stainless fasteners with nylock nuts to prevent just what you describe. Last question I hope. What kind of 24 hour temperatures should we shoot for when gel coating? We are currently in the 60's during the day but night times are getting cool (40's). |
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