New Transom

[mavd02]

Hi guys !!! What do you think about this?

[gonzo]

The photos are not loading.

[Herman]

That is what I think as well.... Imageshack down?

[mavd02]

Ok ready ...



I bought this boat (cobia 1990's) only used for me to go fishing, sometimes a little ride to the beach, all times parked into my house's garage ... it's in recovering process ... i took all old transom hull off because it was strong osmosis i decided to make a complete new structure, when i've disassembled transom i saw E75B yamaha outboard motor supported only by top and hull, all the wood was rotten so I thought that transom hull was expired, i'll put strong wood and make new hull, inside and outside, to form a new solid and strong transom structure, i hope so

[ondarvr]

That isn't the easiest way to attack a rotten transom.

What are your plans after this point?

[mavd02]

a little more...



i´ve tried going fishing this boat and it sails very well for this reason I decided recover it up ...
I've thought about clearing and clean the entire area, to place inside two or more wooden slats to hold reinforcement and install wooden board all fix with epoxy paste, start building internal and external hulls with fiberglass layered putting all necessary... when finished I've thought about leaving the floor where I cut to keep dry transom, finishing on the outside with epoxy paste and then gealcoat ... I hope to build a very strong transom free of osmosis that stay dry...

[mavd02]

Originally Posted by gonzo

The photos are not loading.

Hey, are you from ifsja my friend?

[mavd02]

Originally Posted by ondarvr

That isn't the easiest way to attack a rotten transom.

What are your plans after this point?

I'm agree my friend but osmosis was driven me crazy man

[mavd02]

just now...

BEFORE ...


AFTER ...



What do you think about?

[ondarvr]

Osmosis is normally related to blistering within the laminate, it appears you're doing repairs related to rotten wood in the transom, this is typically due to water entering through poorly sealed screw holes or similar things (design or workmanship).

By cutting the transom off in this way you have created more work for yourself, it can be put back together and work well, but other approaches are a little easier and less time consuming.

[gonzo]

I think you went about it the hard way. Normally you just take the inside part and re-laminate plywood. That looks like a crazy amount of work.

[mavd02]

Originally Posted by ondarvr

Osmosis is normally related to blistering within the laminate, it appears you're doing repairs related to rotten wood in the transom, this is typically due to water entering through poorly sealed screw holes or similar things (design or workmanship).

By cutting the transom off in this way you have created more work for yourself, it can be put back together and work well, but other approaches are a little easier and less time consuming.

Originally Posted by gonzo

I think you went about it the hard way. Normally you just take the inside part and re-laminate plywood. That looks like a crazy amount of work.

hi thks you all. Ok it's at least 20 years made, opened like this easier to me, i found comfort to clear and clean little by little preparing old surface to fix new timber and fiberglass layers, i hope it remains saling by another twenty years you know ...

[mavd02]

advance pics ...



cleaning and clearing a lot of old resin and old glass layers little by little in spare time, i note that this is the first time someone cut this transom

[mavd02]

too much old resin to clean and clear...

i'd like to place here a top of wooden with a hole down to put a cap and fill under floor polyurethane foam with, then spread glass layers on to make inner hull and fix wooden reinforcement and transom, then empty polyester resin, following the original cobia design as I can see ... i think enough space to put batery support anchor ropes spare gas tank etc etc etc , don't you?

[SamSam]

When you cut the transom out you removed a lot of hull strength so when you put it back together you have to make sure the shape hasn't changed. You have to make sure the sides haven't spread out, you have to make sure the hull hasn't "twisted" lengthwise and you have to make sure the bottom hasn't deformed by sitting on the trailer supports.

If you still have the pieces, the cap rail/engine well and the transom piece, you might best proceed by temporarily putting the cap piece back on to hold the correct width and then cleaning up the transom piece and reinstalling it, which will save some effort in finishing the outside of the transom.

To see if the bottom is deformed, use straightedges from front to back to detect any bulges or dips. It should be flat.

To check for lengthwise twist, use two long boards, like 2"x4"x10', put one on the cap crosswise (port to starboard) as far forward as you can (maybe in front of the windshield, and one crosswise on the cap as far aft as you can. Stand back behind the boat 20' or so and look to see that the two boards are parallel. If they aren't there is some twist in the hull.