New Restoration Project Questions

[IHTFP]

I'm relatively new to the board and I have a few questions. I am about to embark on the adventure of a lifetime and restore a 22 Donzi Classic. The boat has rotten transom and stringers. I have the boat completely stripped of hardware and I am about to pop the deck off to get to the structures underneath. My first concern is the lack of ridgidity of the hull without the deck. What is the best way to brace the hull so the sides will not lose their shape? Am I overthinking this problem, is there really nothing to worry about? I have attached some pics of an identical boat that had its deck popped off.

[PAR]

Fiberglass has a real good "memory" and shouldn't loose much of it's shape. This is providing you do have the hull supported well on blocks or stands or even the trailer. The sides of the boat will be a little "floppy" especially when you cut the transom out, but it'll go back together okay. If you would like some cheap insurance, then you can screw or bond a 2 x 4 or two across the deck opening after you pop the deck off. This will keep it from flopping around as much. Note down lots of measurements, so reassembly goes easier.

[yokebutt]

Don't worry too much about it, just make sure the bottom is well supported, because that's where you'll be adding all the new reinforcements. To make sure you're not building twist into the boat, just squat a few yards behind it and line up the transom with the edge of the topsides, that'll tell you all you need to know.

Yokebutt.

[IHTFP]

Thanks for the responses. I have a standard bunk trailer. Do you think that will be enough to support the bottom or do I need to add some support? Also, I am planning on adding knees between the stringers and hullsides (lower half, below the waterline). Is their a rule of thumb for adding knees, for example, 1 knee every 2 feet, 1 knee every 4 feet, etc...

[PAR]

It's rather likely the structure was designed with much more then adequate strength, for it's intended use. Unless you plan on a much more severe life for this little boat, then the original structure layout is the best way to go. This insures the boat isn't overly heavy (read slower or bigger motor) and the effort, cost and materials needed will be reasonable.

Adding a bunch of stringers and or half frames to this boat will do nothing but cause her to sink deeper into the water, suck more money, time, effort and materials out of your pocket. The net result will be an over burdened craft that will be asking a lot more of it's engine and drive, which will wear out sooner from the extra work.

An extra knee under a seat or partial bulkhead were you plan for a heavy object to live is one thing, but it doesn't need to have knees installed, unless you are making other changes we don't know about.

Small boats are very weight sensitive, especially speed boats. Your floor probably got soft from loose fasteners permitting moisture to enter the plywood (typically where seats are screwed down). Lots of time later and the wood is mush and should be replaced. With the new sole in place and the things attached well bedded, you'll have many years of service from her. With good maintenance and upkeep, she could last a very long time. Most boats don't get good maintenance and up keep and they get problems like what you're facing.

You may want to stack some lumber under the centerline of the bottom, where it can be wedged to the trailer, like at the cross pieces, if there aren't centerline rollers. You'll be working inside her quite a bit and this can stress the hull in the few points she touches the trailer. I do this kind of repair all the time and I just drop the boat on a handful of short 4 x 4's across the centerline and a few foam blocks under her chines to keep her from rolling around as I work on it. You can do it, some of it isn't fun, but it's damn rewarding when you re-splash her after it's through.