Missing the "chemical key" window.

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Roly, Jun 11, 2006.

  1. Roly
    Joined: Jul 2005
    Posts: 508
    Likes: 23, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 222
    Location: NZ

    Roly Senior Member

    :eek: Just a little stressed..............
    Yesterday we glassed the hull of our 34' project boat.
    1 x DB430 and 1 x UD 410 over top. What a mission!
    We were so preoccupied with getting it right we missed the window for a
    fill the weave pre-fairing coat. Air temperature was 13deg C to start but the hull
    was 17deg. Air temp. went to 20deg in the middle of day so we turned the hull heaters off.
    It was a juggling act to get it done in 12 hrs. (For us first timers anyway). The middle of the boat went off before we had finished the ends.

    Now the issue is how do we key in a fairing coat to UD 410. It has pronounced "stipple surface".
    Perhaps a deblush & a light sand blast?
    We obviously don't want to cut into the UD.

    Most grateful for any suggestions.
    Roly
     
  2. Roly
    Joined: Jul 2005
    Posts: 508
    Likes: 23, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 222
    Location: NZ

    Roly Senior Member

    For anyone debating whether or not to use peel ply, do it!
    Wish I had now. ;)
    Anybody had any experience with sand blasting the "shine" off epoxy?
    Grade C garnite perhaps?
     
  3. yokebutt
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: 545
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: alameda CA

    yokebutt Boatbuilder

    Try a maroon scotch-brite pad on a D/A or orbital sander. (velcro style pad)

    Yoke.
     

  4. mastcolin
    Joined: Jun 2005
    Posts: 151
    Likes: 14, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 150
    Location: The Netherlands

    mastcolin Senior Member

    I'm with above.

    If you have air drive sanders, sand wet with ammonia water.

    That will remove the sweat.

    ScotchBrite is better than sandpaper cos it will get into nooks and crannys..
     
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