| ||||
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| Missing the "chemical key" window. Just a little stressed..............Yesterday we glassed the hull of our 34' project boat. 1 x DB430 and 1 x UD 410 over top. What a mission! We were so preoccupied with getting it right we missed the window for a fill the weave pre-fairing coat. Air temperature was 13deg C to start but the hull was 17deg. Air temp. went to 20deg in the middle of day so we turned the hull heaters off. It was a juggling act to get it done in 12 hrs. (For us first timers anyway). The middle of the boat went off before we had finished the ends. Now the issue is how do we key in a fairing coat to UD 410. It has pronounced "stipple surface". Perhaps a deblush & a light sand blast? We obviously don't want to cut into the UD. Most grateful for any suggestions. Roly |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| For anyone debating whether or not to use peel ply, do it! Wish I had now. ![]() Anybody had any experience with sand blasting the "shine" off epoxy? Grade C garnite perhaps? |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| Try a maroon scotch-brite pad on a D/A or orbital sander. (velcro style pad) Yoke. |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| I'm with above. If you have air drive sanders, sand wet with ammonia water. That will remove the sweat. ScotchBrite is better than sandpaper cos it will get into nooks and crannys.. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| 35' Henriques Maine Coaster "tailwalking" problem on a following sea. | dkolb1 | Powerboats | 11 | 07-12-2006 06:55 PM |
| "Free" 3D modeler "similar" to Rhino | CGN | Software | 0 | 05-14-2006 11:56 PM |
| Confused about Designing a Hull & "Principles of Yacht Design" | Free Pirate | Boat Design | 8 | 03-10-2005 12:16 PM |
| Drawing for Rhino of "Boat Racing Chair" and "Machine Gun" | Vibtor | Software | 0 | 10-02-2004 03:03 PM |
| "Propeller pockets" or "Tunnels" | 67-LS1 | Powerboats | 24 | 04-16-2004 06:08 AM |