Interlux Perfection vs Awlgrip

Jimbo,
I haven't tried the cat either, but the guy that has his boat 2 slips down from me was the Awl Grip rep for the east coast for many years. He now runs the paint dept at the Marina. He brushes exclusively. No roller. I can't do that. I always put too much paint on, but he swears by the catalist and will not paint without it. Of course like all ---- he will not share his mixing ratios. Actually since I'm painting my own boat with my own money I'll stick to what I know works. I'll just paint early in the morning before the breeze picks up.
Thanks for the compliment -- It's called long board sanding, not too many people want to spend the time to do things right. But on my own boat I spend the time.

 

I have a question on Awlgrip Most of what I read it states that it doesnot do well when you have to tape it and it tends to bleed under the tap. I want to use if for my topside and then use a darker color for my nonskid portion. Should I worry about the tape issue?

On the same subject they also do not recommend that you use awlgrip for your bootstip for the same tape creep issue.

 

I have not had that problem, but you have to remember that Awl Grip reduces down to the consistency of colored water. You need to use a good fine line tape. Not the cheap blue stuff. Think about using the same color for the non-skid. After you add the flattening agent and the sand it appears darker on the boat

 

Thanks for the input. What did you use for primer? I plan on using 545 and roll it on. I wanted to use the high build next but it looks like it can not be rolled on.

I plan on having this finished in about a month but the temps during that time will be on the 50-60 range. Is this too cold to use awlgrip it looks borderline from what I have read.

One more question, I was thinking about painting my alum toerail when I paint my mast. Is this paint tough enough for a toerail?

 

I'm not a sailboater, but I'm guessing a toerail is somethng that gets alot of contact? I would say almost any boat paint is tough enough for abrasion (except by you stupid friend dropping a 1lb sinker on it) as long as you prep the aluminum right- clean, scuff sand, rinse & dry, alodine it (alodine pen would probably work best) then zinc chromate primer, then top coat. Yes, it is involved, but to do it the only way, the right way, is worth the lifespan you'll get out of it.

 

I ended up rolling on 545 twice, 3 times in some places. Lots of hand sanding with 320. You can use Awl Grip for alum. The Awl grip prep specs for alum. are about the same, but some guys like to use an acid wash first. I don't. It's very nasty stuff and really can't be done on the boat. It's O.K. if your mast is on stands, But still very nasty for the environment. The key is to get the primer on as soon as you can after you sand the mast, I mean with-in a few minuets before any oxidation can start. For the toe rails It will hold up as well as can be expected for a paint coating. I painted the toe rails of my last boat with Sherwin Williams Marine satin black, comes in spray cans - made for out-drives. It went on beautifully and was still looking good when I sold her 3 years later. I am going to do that to my Benny too. Not real hi-tech, but it works, and if it does chip, just get out the spray can.

 

does the 545 build enough to filler small crazing? I can always open it up and epoxy it I guess.

Thanks again

 

Kaptin Jer the picture you posted as your first roller paint job was the boat a c-26? Looks very similar to what I am working with

 

What did you do to the existing non-skid on the deck before you painted it?

 

Good eyes. Yes, that was my $800.00 boat that got me into this mess.

 

50% of the original non skid was sanded or faired smooth in the restoration process. I was going to try to match the existing pattern, even got samples and instructions, but that is a lot of work and the right way is to use gel coat which I don't have on the boat any longer. I ended up sanding the org. non skid lightly using 545 then three coats of flattened Awl grip. The first with no sand, the second with med. sand and the third with fine. You can still see a faint pattern but it all works and looks pretty good for an amateur. The additives are tricky to use. You end up with about 1/3 the amount or flattening agent as Awlgrip says to use. You have to do a bunch of trys until you get the look and mix that is right.

 

800? Wow your awlgrip bill had to be more then that.

Looks like I have alot of sanding to do. All in all my C-26 is in good shape. I have a few softspots that need repairs a little but of work around the mast step from a botched raising attempt from someone before me and then stress cracks in the cockpit sole which should be easy to fix. Then I guess I will spend my winter primming and sanding.

Can you recommend a good fairing compound? I am using west systems epoxy for all the repair work I was planning on just using that with a fairing filler.

This is where her reconstruction started. My neightbors put up with if for about a week.



Here is where she is going to spend the next three weeks.

 

Yes, it does look good, But please do me a favor. Forget the cosmetics for a few weeks and do the important stuff. Have you ever seen a boat that has the chain plates anchored to the fiberglass salon seat? Look close at your Chrysler. Have you seen a boat that the compression pole for the mast is a 2 x 2 stick? Open up the head bulkheads. The stern chain plates do not have a backing plate. You will be lucky if there are washers. Are the bolts in the Keel still there and solid? (six at the pivot point) Is the wire to the keel winch solid?

Do the important stuff first. Send me your email address and I'll send pictures of the Chrysler before I sold it to buy the Beneteau.

 

The cosmetic work is the last. I have spent the better part of the summer redoing bad bedding. There was zero epoxy in the bedding holes which caused a bit of damage. I over driller them and filled witthin epoxy first then filled with thickened epoxy. The chainplates were a bit of a joke, you are right there is no backing on the rear at all and there is not much there for support. I have made all new backing plates for everything that goes through the hull that has any force on it. I am also reworking how the side chainplates support to the lower hull. Sheet metal screws holding it down looks a bit scary if you ask me.

The floor is in good shape. I drilled a few inspection holes to see what the wood looked like around the mast post. It was dry and looks to have never been wet, same with the keel winch. The keep seems to be solid but I have not removed the bracket. Was not sure I wanted to do that since it is heavy and everything I do is solo.

As far as the 2x2 stick, I am not even sure I would call it a stick, sticks are usually stronger. I am replacing it with alum stock.

Love to see pictures of yours and any advice you have.

email is ronc "AT" columbus "dot" rr "dot" com

Sorry for sort of high jacking this thread.