How to dry wwod

[PAR]

The first place to check for rot is around the bottom of everything. Again:

Originally Posted by PAR

Gravity has a nasty habit of always pulling in the same general direction. What's the moisture content at the bottom of the bulkhead?

At least now you know.

[Frosty]

If Any one is following this for reference in perhaps they too may have the same probs I have posted this photo. Cutting out was easy once you get the motivation and the courage --it took but a few minutes with a 4 inch grinder with cutting wheel an evil tool to say the least but not quite as evil as a 4 inch grinder with a 5 in rip saw blade.

However wood was purchased and squeezed in.

I am confident and pleased that the strength is re established if not better. I will be examining further bulk head when this is compete with out fear.

[ancient kayaker]

. . . think how much simpler a sailboat would have been . . .

[Frosty]

I don't understand --sail boats have bulk heads and they are bigger.

[ancient kayaker]

As one of my old girlfriends once said, size isn't everything, it's the plumbing that counts

[Frosty]

Can some one send some pills to Kayaker --I don't think he's very well.

[Frosty]

Talking the the man in the pub, he said that a 1inch foam should be in between the bulk head and the hull because epoxy will be too hard to to the hull and will distort the hull.

But But the boat weight 14 tons and I dont think that a strap pulling on a 1 inch foam strip would be a good idea. I have epoxied the repair in solid onto an already shaped hull, I am confident it is strong and sealed from further water ingress.

Is he right?

[rwatson]

Originally Posted by Frosty

... that a 1inch foam should be in between the bulk head and the hull because epoxy will be too hard to to the hull and will distort the hull....
Is he right?

nah - hes talking thru his arse. They didn't do that for the original layup, and you don't need it now.

For a start, you have to replace the bottom 6 inches of FG I presume, so you can either epoxy in the bit you took out, or do a complete new layup (a better option), In either case you will need to bevel the edges of the standing panels for a good join.

There is no use for a foam block between that work and the wood, in fact you want good, direct adhesion onto the wood for structural reasons.

As for any other bits of the bulkhead that have come away from the timber, use your timber planks to press the fibreglass hard against the timber after you have poured epoxy into the gap.

I would be inclined to replace the bottom '6' inches first, and let it go off, and then do any other bonding afterwards to prevent epoxy running out all over the floor.

[Frosty]

Look at the picture #62 already done.