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  #16  
Old 10-30-2007, 08:12 AM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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rolling

thanks,

I am using polyester and that is another good tip, with the acetone

Mark
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  #17  
Old 10-30-2007, 05:10 PM
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the1much the1much is offline
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and them "little white bubbles",,are you sure they are bubbles?,,,could ya resin be "sagging" and just running out. sorry but i jus re-read post and and figured out the original question,,hahahaha and sorry,,i thought you was using epmoxie,heh,,epoxy
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  #18  
Old 10-31-2007, 08:09 AM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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small bubbles

Much, yes I think it could be that so I will take and slather on some more resin to make the spot reall wet, daub it hard with a brush and then hit it with the roller but they some times do not come out.

I have read how crutial a good bond is on foam panels and lots of people bag them to achieve that. I would gues some random small spots won't be the end of the world, just want to do the best possible.

thanks, for your interest and replies

Mark
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  #19  
Old 10-31-2007, 08:24 AM
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ya, sometimes no matter what you do ya get sagging,,try starting from the bottom,,working your way up that will give it less time to sag before kicking off,, and more resin usually dont work, it mostly makes it worse because theres more "wieght" so it sometimes makes it way worse. and you probably know this,,, but once your resin starts to gel, set it down and get more, even if it is just a little gelled it wont work the way it pose too
i dont think your problem is because it not getting "wet", its just running out and off from ya fabric. if the rest of ya cloth is getting "wet" and its just those little spots,, use the same amount as you have been,, we just gotta figure out a technique ta get ya where ya wanna be ,,lol
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2007, 09:49 PM
Gilbert Gilbert is offline
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A lot of builders use a laminating table to make panels and then assemble them into a cabin or whatever and just do the joints in place. You said you've had lots of good experiences laminating on the flat, so this seems like a natural for you. Could you lay the boat on its side? Gravity is wonderful when it is working with you.
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  #21  
Old 10-31-2007, 11:25 PM
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frastorno frastorno is offline
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Reading few posts back.. what's epoxy thinner? Is it from West system as well?
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  #22  
Old 11-01-2007, 08:06 AM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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uphill or down

Much you are right I do start at the top and work down, cause it is easier to handle the fabric, but you are right I can see where the sagging is an issue. Yes sometimes more resin just makes it worse. I will try from the bottom up.

Gilbert in retrospect, I think seaming the panels in would have been a good idea, I just was not comfoftable with all the joints and thought it would be more unified (stronger) by allowing my first lay ups to fully cover and overlap all the panel joints.
I really had a hard go of it last weekend trying to tape in the roof line to the sides around a hard radius (like you said gravity can be your friend) or
The jig that the cabin is built on is pretty square and level so I hesitate to flip it up on it side, but the whole thing does have mat and in sections some cloth on the outside, just don't want to destort it


THANKS, Mark
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  #23  
Old 11-01-2007, 11:21 AM
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you can put a coat of resin down along the whole part your doing,, then stick up your fabric, and wet out enough on the top to hold it for ya, then go to the bottom and work ya way up
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  #24  
Old 11-01-2007, 01:42 PM
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Washing powder works very well to clean brushes and rollers with while the polyester is not cured. Once cured, use angle grinder.

To apply mat on vertical surfaces to prevent them from falling off and stay in place you could paint the surface with the resin first. The dry glass tend to lift off as it has not softened yet if you work around bends.

If you have a lot of cavities to glass out, what I do it to wet the glass in blocks with a wooly roller on one of these fancy plastics like PE, pick it up on two corners and place the wetted glass on the surface you want covered, work in place with a brush.

Experiment with the block sizes you can handle.
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  #25  
Old 11-02-2007, 06:03 PM
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washing powder?,,hmm, never heard of it lol,,,does it work for feet too?
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  #26  
Old 11-02-2007, 06:32 PM
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Actually, it does more than just cleaning brushes and rollers. You know how the polyester burns when it's on your skin and you don't notice it ? Well, after you've washed your hands in the washing poweder water and lightly dry off a couple of times it seems like it makes a protective layer on your hands. I don't use gloves... and yes it gets really sticky at times, so I wash my hands often, washing is a bit overexagerating, more like just wiping it off in the water. I hate wearing gloves.

Haven't tried it on feet though. While our feet in SA may not be as big as yours are in TEXAS, we actually wear shoes here...

Do try, you'll be amazed how well it works. The only washing powder not working as far as I know is Amway's.
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  #27  
Old 11-02-2007, 07:20 PM
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haha well my feet scare even me and 14's just plain big no matter where ya are lmao, so i dont wear shoes much haha,,,,,,and YES girls,, it is true what they say about guys with big feet............we pay extra fer shoes, and they hard to find
that "magic" powder peaking my interest,,i gonna try some for sure TY fer the info
still not sure your not actually meaning "rhino rub" or "elephant elixir" heh
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2007, 07:20 AM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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washing powder

fanie,

ok you have sparked my interest. What is washing powder ?? it must be pretty good if you can laminate with out gloves.



thanks, Mark
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2007, 08:01 AM
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Washing powder is stuff people wash clothes in.
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  #30  
Old 11-04-2007, 08:42 AM
roob76 roob76 is offline
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those air bubbles that wont wet out ir go away may be just contaminates on your cloth/mat. areas contaminted with grease or whatever else from handling the cloth too much may not wet out as easy or at all. the resin ends up wetting over that area intsead of wetting it out and absorbing into the cloth. if it is not huge areas and not along all of your joints you could just sand them away once cured and use a filler to fair it in. if the bubbles are along your joints then you could use some fiberglass tape to strengthen your joints after sanding away all the bubbles/air pockets in the joints.

to do the laminations you are trying to do i would staple the glass to the top edge of the pilot house with as little staples as it takes to hold it up and start glassing from the top with a roller to wet out and a plastic squeege/spreader to spread the resin evenly and knock out most of the air pockets. the spreader helps you move around the resin that is already on the cloth so you don't use exessive amounts of resin and weigh down the cloth.


hope this helps.
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