Help! Rotten Stringers!

[daredevil69]

bhd
Don't get the idea that I am a salesman because this is my first post.
A couple questions, why are you so averse to removing the engine and why are you so insistent on not using wood for the repair?
Removing the engine is a simple job that makes the rest of the job so much easier. It takes me about 30 minutes to remove the engine on a sterndrive. About an hour to replace it.
It sounds like you have quite a bit of rot there. I would not try to pour anything into that mess and expect it to last. Replacing the wood is the only way to do it, nevermind all these wonder products you are reading about.
I own a fiberglass repair shop and would never dream of making a repair the way you are suggesting.
Good luck with it and sorry for being the one to break the bad news.

[bhd]

well, the wood would have to be cut several times to get a good fit. The engine is in a boat, on a trailer, in my back yard. How am I supposed to lift it out?

Are you trying to also tell me that in our age of epoxy, that I can't find something to fill what is essentially a non load baring void with something other than wood? epoxy dries hard as rock, strong as heck in both tension and compression forces. The surrounding fiberglass never showed signs of breakage, I just checked and found rot. If I fill it with feathers it would be stronger than it was. I can dig the rot out, and fill it without removing the engine.

I reather spend 300 on a pourable solution than deal with cutting a piece of wood out 10 times (i'm an amature) to get a proper fit. Then use epoxy to glue it in?

Epoxy = stong as heck, easy to place correctly, and easy to get a perfect fit (as it will flow).

Wood = good strength, more work, and cheaper price.

Me = easy way out if possible. I've looked online, and can't find anyone who has done this. If someone can't say "I have tried this and these are the results" who is anyone here to tell me it won't work? I'm not a materials engineer, or a mechanical engineer, but I have two as friends (i'm a network engineer). I have asked for samples from both companies and am awaiting them for testing (mech. engineer friend).

I don't have the 12 foot tall lift necessary to pull out a 4.3 v6.... nore the time to dissasemble it.

Not trying to sound rude, but if someone has no experience in it, i must beg them to be imaginative. Why is wood so much better? Strength? the strength wasn't an issue when it was mush! epoxy must be better than mush!

(check out the site where the guy is nailing it with a hammer, and there are no breakages. I am going to test the material first - If it isn't awsome, then I will use wood. I am even going to freeze it and try to flex it.)

[bhd]

Sorry... i forgot to thank you for your input. It is valuable. I just have my heart set on the easy way. It is an 18 run about. It had non treated 1/2 plywood for a form.... i don't think it was very "load baring"

Originally Posted by daredevil69

bhd
Don't get the idea that I am a salesman because this is my first post.
A couple questions, why are you so averse to removing the engine and why are you so insistent on not using wood for the repair?
Removing the engine is a simple job that makes the rest of the job so much easier. It takes me about 30 minutes to remove the engine on a sterndrive. About an hour to replace it.
It sounds like you have quite a bit of rot there. I would not try to pour anything into that mess and expect it to last. Replacing the wood is the only way to do it, nevermind all these wonder products you are reading about.
I own a fiberglass repair shop and would never dream of making a repair the way you are suggesting.
Good luck with it and sorry for being the one to break the bad news.

[daredevil69]

Maybe I am mis-understanding the extent of the rot, pictures would help in this case.
Regarding removing the engine, you would not have to take it all the way out of the boat. I use a 4X4 placed across the gunnels sometimes when I just need the engine lifted a few inches. A nylon ratchet strap lifts it quite easily. (Make sure it is a good one and not one of those cheap ones)

[bhd]

you're very right. I need to get pictures. I just called the yahoo that sold me the boat and asked him how much it would cost for him to remove the engine and outdrive and store it while i repair the boat.

8 hours at 80 per hour. 640!

i told him he was a piece of @#$ and he will ask his service guy what they can do to help tomorrow.

The wood is completely gone. I just don't want to have to dissasemble the hydrolics, the engine... bla bla bla... that would take me a day as i'm not an expert. Ive got the rot completely out now... i'll get some pics tomorrow or the next day though. THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK.... This is by far the best boating forum i've found so far... but compared to forums for cars and whatnot... the boat group just isn't very internet savy i guess!

[bhd]

http://forums.bateau2.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=51976&

found another great forum on the issue.... hrm...

[HelmetHead]

BHD,
two years ago i restored from the hull skin up a correct craft riviera...infact..its on lake austin now.... I would HIGHLY suggest you yank the motor from your boat to make these repairs.

I believe you will find additional problems if you've got rotten wood in one place....also....

The stringers your talking about...do they run the full length or most of the length of the hull..ie.2/3 the lenght?. I would be concerned with hull flex without replacing the full length if so. I'm no engineer, but heard stories of partial stringer replacement in tournament ski boats...the hulls tend to flex...and ultimatly failure will occur at the joint in the stringer.

pulling a motor may be tough...but its much easier than repairing something twice.

Good luck

[bhd]

You are correct with your question about stringer length. They run 2/3 the length. I am replacing one side 100%. The other side, after doing some invasive investigation (drilling) is solid. The right side stringer had drill holes from the factory in the bilge area going directly into the stringer for the fuel sensor. I've removed the outside of the floor and stringer, and found that i could completely remove the rest of the stringer in its entirety. I also found water under the foam. It is all cleared out, and i will begin repairs shortly. I am going to fully encapsulate the stringer (it only had fiberglass on the top of the flooring, and wraped over the side to the hull sole in the bilge area VERY CHEAPLY MADE). This should guarantee higher stregth than origional. The motor mounts are solid even with the wood scooped out (thick fiberglass) and I will use epoxy and wood to fill in the voids as new. (Will just one side hold the engine at the right angle if I want to pull the bolt out on the bad side?)

It's an 18' sea ray with a 4.3 v6 so I will never go more than 50mph. Last summer I slammed it around with rotten stingers, so I can only assume that the hull itself is the most important structure. I just hope that improving the strength on one side will not place undo stress on the other STOCK side. I have done considerable learning/work on this boat, and want it working asap for this summer.

On a longer boat with higher power, the stringers would likely be much much more important.

BTW, where should i get my two part expanding foam?
Anyone?
bueller?

[HelmetHead]

BHD,
I bought my foam from Johnson Fiberglass supply in South Houston. They carry most chemicals, resins, glass, and also 2-part marine foam. Not sure who would have it in Austin....good luck.
Helmethead

[Ok J]

the others in this forum are right, you need to pull the motor, while you see the immediate effects at the mounts what you can't see will be a surprise. I am new to boat restoration and am in the process of completely rebuilding an older boat of my own, I am a auto body mechanic by trade and have the basic skills neede for my rebuild. The epoxies you speak of are strong, infact a great material, however if they have a poor bonding surface, or limited bonding surface they will be weak, and separate from the component you are trying to repair. Go ahead and waste your money on a quick fix...you have heard it before, you can pay me now or pay me later...heed the advice of those who know...the people in this forum have the experience as far as I can tell.
There is nothing fun about this...just the end result.
-Cheers