Help Installing Matrix System

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by David Cowen, Nov 7, 2004.

  1. David Cowen
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: 24
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: United kingdom

    David Cowen desperock

    After having removed all the rotten ribs in my hull project I am starting to think along the lines of installing new ones. The system I am considering is in the attached photo. My question is how is this type of stsyem normally attached to the hull? Tabbed or fully glassed? My plan is once the floor is attached to the stringer sytem, glass the lot in using Roving and CSM to give me a watertight deck. The hull is 27ft long( around the same as in the photo). Also if I go the self draining deck route is there a minimum standard height the scuppers should be above the waterline before using this type of system? You can see my hull in the type of hull post earlier in this forum
     

    Attached Files:

  2. tja
    Joined: Sep 2004
    Posts: 126
    Likes: 1, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 11
    Location: canton oh

    tja Senior Member

    tja

    The stringers should be glassed in completely with mat and woven roving or biaxial fiberglass, Tom.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I'd strongly rethink the idea of re-engineering the sole support structure in your little yacht. Yes, this type of grid system does provide a great deal of strength, but it is necessary to do a centers of mass calculations to insure the new structure will not adversely effect the trim and handling qualities of the boat, as well as a bit of engineering to provide enough support without excessive weight. Weight in the wrong places or excessive amounts unnecessarily used or distributed can be a real performance killer in small craft and possibly dangerous.

    Typically the support structure is bonded to the hull with tabs or adhesive, then sheathed.

    Self draining deck/cockpit heights have been an ongoing debate for years. Small craft have the most difficulty as the freeboard limitations can make the decision to be too low. I think 8" works, 6" has been done as has lower, but I wouldn't recommend it in power boats, the rule is "as high as you can".
     
  4. David Cowen
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: 24
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: United kingdom

    David Cowen desperock

    Tom and Par thanks for that. Tom was that biaxiale and matt or biaxial on its own?
     

  5. tja
    Joined: Sep 2004
    Posts: 126
    Likes: 1, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 11
    Location: canton oh

    tja Senior Member

    tja

    I always put down a layer of mat then biaxial, Tom.
     
Loading...
Similar Threads
  1. Alistair Perrott
    Replies:
    3
    Views:
    791
  2. fallguy
    Replies:
    5
    Views:
    805
  3. Carlazzomark
    Replies:
    17
    Views:
    1,857
  4. fallguy
    Replies:
    19
    Views:
    1,493
  5. fallguy
    Replies:
    41
    Views:
    2,718
  6. Manuel R Alonso
    Replies:
    9
    Views:
    2,186
  7. WalleyeSniper
    Replies:
    8
    Views:
    1,841
  8. First Boat
    Replies:
    8
    Views:
    1,715
  9. Scuff
    Replies:
    24
    Views:
    3,229
  10. Daniel Duprez
    Replies:
    1
    Views:
    923
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.