Hazardous materials/fumes in small spaces

Hello everyone,

I am a surfboard builder looking for advice from fellow watermen. Surfers have long looked to boat builders for design inspiration, so I figured I should do the same with this problem. I would greatly appreciate any advice you can offer.

I am currently setting up a new board shaping facility in a two car garage sperated from the main building by a small hallway. This space is in the Great Lakes, where our winters are obviously fairly long and cold.

My concern lies in finding a safe, efficient way to heat the space. In the past, in similar situations, I have used electric baseboard and space heaters with consistently safe results. However, I've heard that the resin and other hazardous material fumes (mekp, etc) may dangerously interact with even the electric heaters, let alone heaters with spark-ignition and open flames.

So, my question; what do boat builders and other fiberglass applicators do to safely and cost effectively heat in cold climate winters? I understand that many of the aforementioned do so on a larger scale, and therefore can afford the space and equipment needed to do so.

What is a small scale, "backyard" builder's best option in this situation?

Thanks again,
rcgerard

 

Worried? Safest I know of is hotwater baseboard finned radiators. the heater or furnace can be in a 1' away, detached building. Heat loss from building to building would be very low due to the short distance. A heat failure runs the risk of freezing if water is used. Ethylene glyco 50%, same as a car may go low enough in your area. Drinking, cold and hot water for sink, remain the same.

 

Infrared panels are good too. They don't heat the air, only denser matter. In paint booths, switches, lights and any other source of sparks is either outside or is sealed.

 

I believe all infrared panels are very hot surfaces. Whethere a gas or electric. Some are probably explosion proof. They are excellent for only heating what the radiated rays strike. You would have to contact heating equipment companies to see if they are safe enough.

 

Any flammable vapor/air mixture has a lower explosive limit (LEL) and upper explosive limit (UEL), measured in precent of vapor in air (if I recall). Between these two levels combustion will occur if there's an ignition source. Your goal will be to stay way under the LEL at all times.

Heat sources are one source of combustion, and I would agree that hot water heating from a remotely located boiler is probably the safest, but it will cost money. Keep in mind that there are other ignition sources, and if your atmosphere is between the LEL and UEL then ANY spark can be an ignition source, such as the internal workings of a light switch when you turn it on, a dropped tool creating a spark, or even a cell phone. That's why they make "explosion proof" electrical fixtures.

The good news is that getting anywhere near the LEL usually means that you're in a very toxic atmosphere and physically won't be able to tolerate it, but sometimes vapors can collect and pool and create a locally explosive zone.

There are explosive meters that can tell you when you're getting into a dangerous circumstance. You might be able to rent a portable one from a commercial instrument rental place to get a handle on conditions, but make sure you know how to use it.

The best way to handle these situations is to ventilate the space continuously. Tough to do when it's 10 below. If you're doing very limited work it'll probably be manageable - if you're doing more production work, or are doing large volumes at once, then hire someone to help you not kill your self or burn your place down. An industrial hygienist should be very well versed in this stuff and can advise on strategies.

I recommend using epoxies which don't have explosive vapors, and avoid the whole issue entirely.

What the hell is a surf board builder doing in the midwest anyway?

 

" The ice is up."

 

I agree with Gonzo. Take a look at a company called Space Ray, and one called Gordon Ray. We are putting up a structure to do our spraying and layup, and will be using radiant heaters. A buddy of mine uses them in his autobody shop. They appear to be safe, and efficient, especially if your building is not well insulated.

 

I heard people are surfing the wake from the Rochester fast ferry on lake Ontario. Not sure what it's future is, though.
May want to consider building a DN60. Lots of iceboating around.

 

Hot water heat and run a ventilation fan when needed. Your health is more important than work.

 

OSHA ( OK, Smile, Heat Again. ) is a good thing when it is really cold.

 

There is much work that could be done seasonally, shaping and prep'ing your cores and then as weather permits covering them. Making the work area safe in all respects will be very expensive and unless your production levels justify it will only cut your profits. Hot water heating systems are the only way to be sure that you won't get toxic vapors reacting with combustion flames and produicing only god knows what.

 

The problem is not heating , but KEEPING the heat you paid for and being able to breath.

An air to air heat exchanger is fairly efficent , and a constant air replacement will solve any health problems from breathing the resin outgassing.

"However, I've heard that the resin and other hazardous material fumes (mekp, etc) may dangerously interact "

Yes this is in theory , but you probably will never reach 1/100 of an explosice mixture with surf board volumes.

I visited a factory that laid up 20,000 gal fuel tanks , on a revolving form that fed glass and mat as it spun & had a gun setup to wet everything out.

Indeed the place used 50gal drums of resin as fast as some can eat peanuts.
The 3 or 4 RR cars always outside kept the resin flowing , but I dont think thats your expected production level.

FAST FRED

 

First rule, never mix Cobalt and MEKP together, it will explode.

Always mix cobalt into the resin first then add MEKP

Acetone, Styrene fumes which are very volatile, are heavy and tends to collect on the floor. Any open flame or electrical spark will ignite it. Keep shop well ventilated. There has been cases where static has been enough to trigger combustion. Do not work on very cold and dry (humidity) areas.

Never leave a hot batch of resin unattended. Most shop fires were caused by the hot batch of resin reaching thermal runaway and going into spontaneous combustion.