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  #16  
Old 06-12-2010, 08:24 AM
capt littlelegs capt littlelegs is offline
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Neg rep Please keep it nice, will you?

Hey who's attacking who here? But thanks anyway!
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2010, 06:05 PM
grpqueen grpqueen is offline
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I wanted to use grp as i can shape the tanks to fit the curve of my hull, also to have two large tanks custom made in plastic or stainles is far more costly. And as I am building this boat for myself my budget unfortunatly is a factor. I would like nothing better than to buy more and have less work myself,lol
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2010, 05:06 AM
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CDK CDK is offline
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Quite sensible reasoning.
If the tanks are going to be really large, do not forget to divide them into compartments to avoid sloshing and prevent the walls from bulging under the weight of the fuel.
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2010, 05:14 AM
Crag Cay Crag Cay is offline
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Our GRP diesel tanks have been perfect since Landamores built them in 1969.
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2010, 11:16 AM
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Commuter Boats Commuter Boats is offline
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I've built many Fiberglass diesel tanks both in new construction and when refitting a vessel that had had either aluminum or steel tanks go bad. In my time I have had to repair two fiberglass diesel tanks that leaked, one was a leak from the original manufacturing, the other was ruptured in a poor docking maneuver. It's my preference to have a layer of foam between the tank and the hull.
Do not build fuel tanks of stainless steel.... that's another thread...
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  #21  
Old 06-21-2010, 08:33 PM
tunnels tunnels is offline
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Location: china is great and interesting !!
There is a very good attical in the professional boat builder magazine a few years back on this very subject!! well worth reading for all concerned .

When i make a fuel tank i make a wooden mould the size i need , It will have a flang at least 50mm wide round the top for the lid to be Glued perminantly to when it is nearly completed . All fittings and vents etc etc need to come in from the top only , And if possible a good sized inspection cover should be made provission for during the build process!.
I do a male mould job over the mould starting with 2 coats of Vinylester resin, then carry on with the same resin and continuos strand tissue glass backed then left to harden !, then up with 450 gram of chopped strand P matt then move on to uni glass round the tank then across the bottom .
I use pvc foam sheet H80 vac bagged to a layer of wet glass but kept away from all corners by 50 mm . The thickness of the core depends on the capacity and shape of the tank . The core is covered by the same uni glass the same way as the first layers .
By building over a mould the only join is where the top fits on to the flange . All and any fittings can be fitted to the lid and internal baffles can be made from solid sheet glass with a 90 degree flange to be glued to the tank . i do a egg crate configeration so they lock together and slide in place and glued there .


Moving liquid in volumn is a whole interesting subject!! get a clear plastic container and half fill with water and put a tight fitting lid in it and roll and rock it and watch what happens .
I worked for a industrial glassing company making acid tanks and Hot acid delivery pipe work . One minor defect and you have a disaster on you hands and every where else to !!
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  #22  
Old 07-13-2010, 03:07 AM
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Herman Herman is offline
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nevermind...
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