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  #1  
Old 12-14-2011, 08:19 AM
hardcoreducknut hardcoreducknut is offline
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Gel Coat vs Bed Liner

I'm in the process of designing a Polystyrene marsh sneakboat for duckhunting. I of course plan on using epoxy resin and will have to coat it.

I'm debating on using bed liner vs gel coat due to it's toughness. I'm guessing bed liner will weigh more, but offer more protection. Any input on this would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2011, 10:06 PM
ondarvr ondarvr is offline
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Since gel coat doesn't bond all that well to epoxy you can scratch it off the list of options.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:31 PM
OFFSHORE GINGER OFFSHORE GINGER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ondarvr View Post
Since gel coat doesn't bond all that well to epoxy you can scratch it off the list of options.
unless ....he uses a primer first .......for that type of application , and one of those primers are made by Durtech. http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec.html
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:14 PM
ondarvr ondarvr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
unless ....he uses a primer first .......for that type of application , and one of those primers are made by Durtech. http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec.html
More weight, more complicated, more $$$, so why go that direction when there are other less costly, easier, lighter and better options...like maybe paint.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:06 AM
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PAR PAR is offline
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Truck bed liner coatings are specially formulated, modified polyurethanes. They aren't high gloss and chalk up pretty quickly in most colors. They tend to go down heavy (30 mils plus) and you need to spray the high cyanoacetate formulations (special guns) with care, if you want a smooth finish. You can paint over them, but the dramatic difference in film elongation, will likely cause issues on a boat.

I'll second the paint option, as it's the economical method with easily obtained, spectacular results. This isn't true with both gel coat and truck bed liner. With some skill, well controlled conditions and an experienced sprayer, you can get a very good gel coat job, but this would be a rare thing from a shade tree type of situation, that the typical home builder would produce.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:24 AM
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the1much the1much is offline
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id buy a truck for my bedliner hehehe hiya par niceseein you again ; }
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:28 AM
latman latman is offline
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when you say coat I assume you will be using epoxy resin to wet out a reinforcing fibre cloth (otherwise it will be brittle/useless IMO and then the PU Bed liner coating is the way to go after that is all nicely sanded up !!
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2011, 09:46 AM
OFFSHORE GINGER OFFSHORE GINGER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ondarvr View Post
More weight, more complicated, more $$$, so why go that direction when there are other less costly, easier, lighter and better options...like maybe paint.
ondavr , just curious what is so complicated about it........ considering most areas or any surface that needs to be painted usally will require a Primer prior to painting which most likely will be a primer that is recomended by the manufacturer of the paint but then again there are a lot of primers out there...... that are compatible with just about everything . Hey guys , my neighbor, is in his late 70's has been painting is duck boat with Sears Weather beater for the last 30 years which really does not look that bad ,and if cost is that big of a concern ,and something as simple as prepping a project for paint (Primer).............................why not .
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:08 AM
ondarvr ondarvr is offline
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Special order it, have it shipped (hazardous material $$), catalyzed with an application window, etc.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:47 PM
OFFSHORE GINGER OFFSHORE GINGER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ondarvr View Post
Special order it, have it shipped (hazardous material $$), catalyzed with an application window, etc.
hey guy not to be rude................but you sure are Mr negative considering just about everything that is used in this industry has a window from resin to paint and to tell you the truth just how many people have the luxury of going down to the corner store and buying resin , Gel ,Fabric ,Core , Cabosil , Bagging supplies , Primer , ect ,ect, without having to order it Done ................
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:15 PM
idkfa idkfa is offline
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Seems a large part of the problem is spraying, most of the products use 30,000US plural component spray equipment.

Also getting a smooth surface may be impossible?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njsZW...eature=related

http://www.pickupspecialties.com/Bed...bed_liner.html

www.rhinoliningsindustrial.com

other info pick-up online:

Polyurea elastomer systems are amorphous in nature, not crystalline
like polyurethane systems. This amorphous nature is similar to that of
epoxy type systems except that polyurea system do not have a true
glass transition temperature.

What's the difference between aromatic and aliphatic polyurea systems?

The typical aromatic
polyurea systems must be processed through high pressure, heated
plural component pumps and sprayed through an impingement type
spray-gun.

This is true also for the aliphatic version of this type of
system, the primary difference being the color stability of the
aliphatic systems.

Actually there are two different types of aliphatic polyurea systems
currently on the market. One is the typical high pressure/temperature
sprayed systems and the other is what is known as a "polyaspartic
polyurea" type system. This polyaspartic system is different in that
it uses an ester based resin component and has a longer pot life. It
can be hand applied using close nap rollers; brushes; rakes or even
airless sprayers. The aspartic systems are not the high build coating
typical of the "hot spray" polyurea systems.

How should polyurea be prepared for overcoating after initial cure of
the polyurea?

Prior to overcoating polyurea make sure it is clean. For the first
several hours after polyurea has gelled it may be suitable for
overcoating without further preparation. If polyurea base coat
material has been in place for longer than six hours there could be
problems with inter-coat adhesion. Since fewer products are carried in
aromatic solvent, which tacktify polyurea you must undertake this
process. To assure inter-coat bond apply a liberal amount of denatured
alcohol (or more aggressive solvent such as acetone or MEK) to
polyurea and allowed to evaporate completely. This will re-tack the
polyurea base coat and allow proper adhesion of the follow-on
overcoat. This same procedure should be used when bonding polyurea to
polyurea after initial cure has taken place.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf RhinoPak70D_dSheet_5235.pdf (608.5 KB, 56 views)
File Type: pdf CartridgeGun dsheet_4997.pdf (355.0 KB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf FOX brushable fx645 polyurea.pdf (127.2 KB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf Volatilefree VFI-251.pdf (96.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: pdf Epoxy_com 1800.pdf (99.9 KB, 12 views)
File Type: pdf VersaFlex Aliphatic ClearCoat.pdf (60.7 KB, 31 views)
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:33 PM
ondarvr ondarvr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
hey guy not to be rude................but you sure are Mr negative considering just about everything that is used in this industry has a window from resin to paint and to tell you the truth just how many people have the luxury of going down to the corner store and buying resin , Gel ,Fabric ,Core , Cabosil , Bagging supplies , Primer , ect ,ect, without having to order it Done ................

Not negative, just realistic. He can go down to the local hardware and store buy primer and paint that will work fine on a project like this for a fraction of the cost of buying gel coat and a suitable primer for good adhesion to epoxy, and that's before the cost of shipping.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:38 PM
hardcoreducknut hardcoreducknut is offline
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I appreciate all of the responses thus far. I guess there might be some questions why I am asking about bed liner.

I guess I should have mentioned a little more about what I'm doing, this post may illustrate. The boat I am going to build will be much more...sexy. I'll have nice lines, conduit for wiring lights, switch panels, sub-floor, etc...basically a dream duck hunting layout boat. I plan to build it this coming off-season to have ready for 2012-2013.

I really don't care about cost. If I wanted cheap I'd just buy another boat like mine off Craigslist for $400 and call it a day.

The reason I am asking about bed liner is we have to break ice often when duck hunting here in NW Missouri. Something I've done plenty of times with my current layout boat that uses polyester resin. I don't have any cracks or leaks (that I'm aware of) from this...yet. However, I know that epoxy is stronger and it won't melt polystyrene.

From the responses thus far, paint is cheaper, easier and only offers aesthetics and UV protection. Bed liner is more expensive, requires more prep and offers more protection than just UV but often fades in color to a gray. The boat will be completely covered in grass and sloshed in mud. I doubt anyone would see that.

Am I correct in my thinking that a commercial application (line-x/rhino liner) would be preferred over Herculiner?

Ondavr: You're right, I'm using epoxy to wet out fiberglass.
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2011, 04:16 PM
ondarvr ondarvr is offline
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That helps a great deal.

You can use paint on the topside and a truck liner type product on the bottom if you think it will be subjected to a great deal of abrasion. Use a very flexible brand though, some are rather stiff and may crack or chip. They can also be heavy, so don't over do it.
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