Coronado15 Rebuild

It's the right kind of idea, but from what I can remember, it's not easy to do because the sides of the trunk and the sides of the post don't line up well. It's alot like building an I-beam, but those "stringers" box it in.

 

Here is that fix. I ground out the crack and layered in the glass (5 layers total.) Three strips of glass also make the turn into the nose of the slot. It was likewise repaired on the inside.

 

Just trying to make the point that this is a weak point in the original design.

 

I never replaced that keel strip after removal, instead I glassed in 7 layers of 10 ounce cloth. You can see how I cut a notch in the cloth to fit down each side of the trunk. To have stopped right at the front of the truck would have just built in a hinge point.
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Then, I fit those triangular pieces and epoxied them into place (because of the color it looks like microballoons were used as a thickener, but it's mostly fumed silica. I added a small amount of the balloons because it seemed to make everything easier to mix together. Same deal with carbon powder, I added a small amount to a few batches in hopes that it would make the epoxy easier to mix and work with. The triangular pieces move compression away from that small hinge point, and out into those stringers.
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It's the same deal with my compression post, the force is shared with the stringers. It looks a little messy because it's not easy to work in such a small space.
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See the crack just at the very front and bottom of the trunk. It's just between the trunk and the stiffener. And just above where the keel strip starts (design flaw.)
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On another note: Of all the stuff I build into this boat, I'm very happy with this modification. I picked up the idea from an int.505 website. Whether they added the reinforcement because the original trunk was flexing, or if they were upgrading to a centerboard with more lift, I don't remember. This is a great mod. however for the C15. That plate could carry all the way to the top of the cockpit (and help to support it,) and it could be extended forward toward the compression post (to help tie these two areas together.) Here is the link. http://www.usa505.org/rigging/trunk-reinforcement

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Interesting, So you added a panel to the side of the CB trunk, I'll have to look and see if I did same would it bring the CB to the same width as the CP I made. If so I could butt joint the cp to the cb and then sister a piece to bridge the butt joint... making it one solid core. That said...this weekend I'd like to fill & matt the CP backing plate area, and get the CP installed. It has suddenly hit me that the weather is changing and I'm gonna want to sail this girl soon and the list of to-do's is still so long. I also need to plan out what's left on the required to-buy list, that get's her back in the water. I ordered a new CB gasket yesterday. I'm gonna need 4200 for re-bedding all of the hardware, my trailer needs rollers. The biggest issue is adding back the flotation. UGH, head spinning. On another note, didn't you take your boat out for a sail recently? How'd she do? No sandbars I hope.

 

I did get out for a sail and it was a good time. Stayed well away from that sand bar.

That block of ply on the CB trunk is a great idea. The foil works against this area of the hull, so it makes sense. If the boat does capsize and someone has to climb onto the board to right the hull, then all that force is directed there. I've been thinking about your flotation questions, maybe some cheap foam sheets from the big box home store could solve this problem. Just cut up the sheet and glue it back together to make what ever shape is best.

Let me ask, how much sailing experience do you have?

 

I haven't done much small boat sailing, We took a class as a family and joined a club about 6 years ago. I've spent some time on 23-28 foot boats. I also helped as CREW (read ballast) on the club's Wednesday night races.
My attitude is more of a cruiser/destination mind than one of races and competition. I bought this boat as a way to get on the water, and have some fun with the kids. Clearly it’s not a cruiser/weekender. I figured it was either a gateway boat or a cure. ;-)

This weekends work:
I cut out some pieces with the slope to glue to the CB and some more pieces to sister the CP to the CB. I'm going to try and cut out my bulkheads this week and get that all whetted out and ready to install. I have hopes of being able to do that on the weekend. I also picked up some more paint for the trailer so hopefully it will be "visible" rust free by the end of the weekend as well (not likely I will really get all of that done).

I'm soon to be stuck, because I can see there is sooo, much I COULD do to this boat. However, I want us to be able to enjoy it too.

Hull reinforcement
Inside the hull there are pads, or wood or foam something that was glassed in to reinforce (since deteriorated). It's clear these reinforcements should be ground out and replaced, or at least have the divots filled with epoxy or something.. but I can't really get in there without cutting out the floor of the boat. I'd certainly need more than a couple of inspection ports. Maybe if I just ignore them it won’t matter?
Stringers
These are extremely brittle; I’m assuming they are structural. The lower half of my port stringer is probably 65% snapped off and gone. It might not be too hard to put new stringers in if the access was there, like if the floor of the cockpit was removed? I could even tab them to the hull, which they aren’t currently, for that much more structural integrity.
Flotation
I was leaning towards the pour-able closed cell foam for adding flotation back in. I think for about $100 I could add some structure to the floor, and get the most flotation bang for my buck. I think I can also get it in place without cutting out the floor (although easier if I do). My original plan was to do this without cutting and having the boat flipped. The foam would ideally grow up to the top (bottom) of the stringers and then if it was “growing beyond plan” could overflow to the larger cavity to the sides but again, my stringers are sad and week and I worry about my ability to get it “delivered” to the aft section of the cockpit in the brief working time that product comes with.
So I've got to decide, do I give up more sailing time to do a more thorough repair now? That might be the wise thing in terms of cost , safety, longevity and workload. Or do I do what I can now with CP and CB and bh.. find a safe 6 month solution to flotation, that is affordable. Sail it until it's cold and then cut the floor out in November and get her rock solid for 2017 and beyond?
Third option is to fix the cb,cp,bh and add flotation of choice, and forget that the hull reinforcement and the stringers are deteriorated? This last one is not really my way and would be tough to let go, unless we can safely say that none of those hr/stringer issues matter. And we sail her until they do.

 

on a more humorous note, remember the mast step backing plate and the voids around it? Late the other night, I just wanted to push through, just a little bit of progress. So I mixed up some epoxy and added some silica. I wiggled my way as much as I can, into the boat..now for the record, that backing plate is RIGHT IN MY FACE when I'm in there. So I began to pour my mix into the voids and sure enough, it started running right through the holes (from the mast step) onto my belly. :-0... I scrambled out, put packing tape over the holes, cleaned the nice shirt I should have changed out of with denatured alcohol, rinsed it with water.. worked my way back in to pour the rest of my mix.. I'm nothing if not SMOOOOTH ;-). After all that.. epoxy started dripping from the joint at the top of my CB trunk.. so I guess there was a leak there I couldn't see, I'm pretty sure It would be sealed up now. Unfortunately, my voids need more work/epoxy now.

 

I saw on some other board where people are using this stuff for floatation...


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...oove-R-10-Insulation-Sheathing-24DD/100320335

 

That's exactly the stuff I'm talking about. Cut the sheet into smaller pieces and stack it up to whatever shape works. I think that epoxy will glue the layers together. Not sure about the price.

Pour-able foam is expensive, messy, and unpredictable.

 

Yup, I googled it. Epoxy is good with extruded polystyrene (this is how surf boards are made.) I found an EPS product similar to the Owens Corning panel, and it's about half the price. The stuff is at Home Depot and it's called R-Teck. You might need two panels.

The pink panel was listed at $17.45 and the R-teck is listed at about $11.00. No reason to spend extra money on a flotation block. Ideally you should be able to remove it when the boat is not being used for long periods.

 

so looks like they have R-Tek at my local store too, I think I'm trying to get to minimum of 4 cu ft of flotation.. I think that's close to the volume of what was there before (although at 60 pounds flotation per cf that seems light on flotation to me). So I can get 3 * 1x24x96 (4cf almost on nose) for $29 or I can get 2* 2x24x96 (5.333cf ) for $31.. 30% more float for $2..such a deal.

 

Congrats on getting the hull turned over. Was it a big project?

It looks good. It's a tough spot to work in but you only have to do it once. I used a heavy chisel to knock away all of the original loose adhesive and also the thin layer of poorly constructed fiberglass. I have a picture someplace.

It's the chisel without the handle; heavy enough to chip away at this job without a hammer. (Wear safety glasses.)