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  #16  
Old 08-21-2005, 06:55 PM
jimslade jimslade is offline
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There are many types of epoxy. I have been spraying epoxy for 24 years and done a lot of research on it. MEK and acetone are not similar in they way that toulene and zylene are related your bsc is just bs. I just finished a complete restoration on a 47 chev pu. Used epoxy primers and epoxy paint on the frame. I have sprayed epoxy on custom cedarstrip canoes which I built from scratch. Sorry mastcolin but experiance is worth more in my book than chemical geeks. I have sprayed every kind of paint that was available in the last 30 years and I deal with paint reps that know very little. The formulations that are used in epoxy very so much that it would take too much of my time. Im a closet chemistry student.
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2005, 10:40 AM
mastcolin mastcolin is offline
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Jim.

I'm sorry your friend suffered from his work but the chemical difference between MEK and acetone is slight to all intents and purposes that we are going to come across it.

Acetone is CH3C0CH3, MEK is CH3COCH2CH3. Acetone could be described as MMK, methyl methyl ketone. I don't know what closet school of chemistry you're studying at but you are a bit Fe2O3/Fe0(minus water of hydration here)

Acetone just evaporates quicker.

Yep, 4 years at university taught me loads of stuff that in 18 years I've had no use for. And yep, I've met plenty reps with limited knowledge. Sort of balanced out by meeting loads of yards with similar knowledge shortfalls.

Yes, acetone will sometimes clean better than MEk and sometimes vice verse. It depends on the product you're trying to thin/clean. Suck it and see.

I don't like acetone cos a) it can cool the surface when it evaporates thus causing dewpoint problems ie haze or blush b) it's got a very low ignition temperature and can build static when sprayed causing flash fires (I can get you examples if you want, this is no theory. The UK car refinish trade had spate in early 80's when plastic panels/fenders 1st appeared. People washed down with acetone before spraying and whoosh, you're going home to your wife minus your eye-brows)

I don't doubt you sprayed your canoes. It just seemed for spraying furniture where I presumed it was complicated pieces you'd get a load of waste. Is it worth bother? I'll let them decide.

happy building and studying the chemistry. It's over-rated as you mentioned.

Me?, I'm gonna partake in some dilute ethanol-not methanol, that will kill me.
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  #18  
Old 08-22-2005, 12:50 PM
jimslade jimslade is offline
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Put acetone in polyester resin and see if it will kick.good luck! major differance! the only thing that I use acetone for is cleaning brushes and my wifes nails.also is there a differance between H20 and H.
which one will burn? What is your exp. in working with epoxys and have you ever sprayed the epoxy that west system sells? if not stay off this post. I have the experiance and am trying to help her. Your just blowing your horn in the fog.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2005, 01:27 AM
yokebutt yokebutt is offline
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Are you two done bickering? Good, then let's get back to the building up of layers of neat (no solvents) epoxy.

Here's what I do on smaller parts, first build a temporary oven, usually a cardboard box will do, use a ceramic space-heater for heating, adjust temperature by moving the heater. Put the part in the oven, heat until it reaches 120 or so degrees farenheit, (a digital cooking thermometer will work) exact temp depends on the particular resin. Once the part is thoroughly warmed, mix enough epoxy to coat it, microwave the epoxy 1-2 seconds per ounce, apply it quickly with a foam-brush and put the part back in the oven.

With this method you can apply one coat every 30-60 minutes, and the epoxy will flow nicely when heated.
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