Carbon Fiber compression plate question

The magic Google will show you a gazillion home-made metal bending brakes that are simply a few hinges and a couple boards. Light-gauge aluminum should be no problem.

I'll bet you could fab up the bender a lot faster than you could mold and lay up the composite.

One other advantage of aluminum in this instance is that it can probably survive impacts better if you whack something running shallow. Most likely you could bend it back into shape with a pliers. Composite will probably fracture and require a difficult repair or replacement. Now your prop...

 

Really?? Very interesting, heck if I can build my own bender that would be perfect!!

As for impact the plate runs well above surrounding sea level, like 12" above, prop is about even with bottom of hull, skeg is about 2" below so pretty safe on that perspective! Thanks for the idea, going to google this right now ))

 

Sheet metal shop job that can be done in a jiffy.

 

I just got quoted for the carbon fiber 5yds of 50" 12 oz uni $39 per yd

I can orient them into 7 layers of 0-90 plus 10 layers for the top clamping plate. Another $100 for resin ... I don't save any money over buying the fiberglass one but it should be better since Im making it specific for my prop, boat and motor.

The motor plate is 6" wide, my top plate is about 10" so it's already getting a lot of support from the motor plate. I think it will be stiff enough, we will see.

The composite version is all within my control which is valuable to me because Im tired of dealing with the work ethic down here, waste of time and money.

I don't see the difficulty in infusing this, all my other infusions have been much more difficult, this will be a pleasure in comparison!!!

 

Going to finish this thread so it's worth something.

I vacuum bagged 12 layers of 12oz biax 0-90, 45-45 it's what I had on hand. The final part came out quite stiff, I was surprised, glad I didn't use the carbon which would have been too costly and I don't think the stiffness is needed.

Here is the video, of the vacbag setup.
https://youtu.be/MD568Ag7gPg

Here are a few pics of the part, Im in one so you can get an idea of scale.







The plate will now be notched to fit lower unit and shaped. The sides are not full height for the full distance. The front of the plate is flat so the tunnel water is not blocked in turns.

I used to think these plates worked by keeping water around the prop but after watching my old plate I think the reason these plates work so well is they create a sort of bottleneck and since the prop is pulling not pushing, it gets a better bite. So it's not compressing water to the prop, it's compressing the water flow, my theory, yes I know water doesn't compress, I don't know a better term, pressurize.

My prop when jacked all the way up is above bottom of boat, only skeg hangs down so I can run in about 2" which I have confirmed. Since it's a back country keys boat, I rarely need to cross big water and by sticking to the shallows, 6"-12", I can avoid pounding. That said, I'd like to work on a better hull design that drafts no more than 6" but gives me a bit smoother ride in small chop.

I'd like to affix this plate with sikaflex or 5200, I don't think I need a top plate to sandwich the motors existing plate the way most plates are attached ... Though I may bond some brackets on it and bolt to them, I am going to think about that some