Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-21-2007, 11:26 PM
oops! oops! is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Rep: 16 Posts: 17
Location: kelowna bc
can i make a mould this way?

i want to make a mould of my 19 foot fiberglass boat os i can extend the hull 3-4 feet.
i intend on making a plywood cradle somewhat simmelar to the shape of the hull.
shrink wrap the hull
suspend the hull in the cradle, but the hull not touching the cradle 4-5 inches above.
fill space with expanding foam!
when dry pull hull leaving shrink wrap behind.
this should give me a mould to work with when the hull is extended.and smooth enough to spray gellcoat.
my question....
will this work? or is it just a stupid idea?

have atter guys!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-22-2007, 04:23 AM
hmattos hmattos is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Rep: 59 Posts: 115
Location: Devon UK
Good concept, but I suggest that you will get wrinkles in the shrinkwrap, and do check that your shrinkwrap does not dissolve in Gel / resin.

My suggestion would be to pull the shrinkwrap off after the foam is set and then lay up a good thickness of GRP in the foam to make a substantial mould. Gel and sand this back to make a good mould. Expensive, but most good things are>
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-22-2007, 03:18 PM
oops! oops! is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Rep: 16 Posts: 17
Location: kelowna bc
thank you!
im still new at this stuff so all help is appreciated!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-22-2007, 09:22 PM
the1much's Avatar
the1much the1much is offline
huh? hehe ;)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Rep: 547 Posts: 3,949
Location: texas
it might,, but i dont think so,,alot of things to go wrong,, wouldnt it be easier to cut your transom, then add the footage, then re-connect the transom?. that was my very first job in a boat yard, we were adding 10 feet to a 55 foot power yacht, and thats the way we did it.
__________________
hehe ,,,,,Jim------>
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-23-2007, 04:44 AM
oops! oops! is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Rep: 16 Posts: 17
Location: kelowna bc
Quote:
Originally Posted by the1much View Post
it might,, but i dont think so,,alot of things to go wrong,, wouldnt it be easier to cut your transom, then add the footage, then re-connect the transom?. that was my very first job in a boat yard, we were adding 10 feet to a 55 foot power yacht, and thats the way we did it.
i was thinking of cutting amid ships. i was worried about the strictural integrity of the joint approxatly at the front on the motor. i thought a lot of pressure would be put on that hull section. i was going to add two more stringers.
If youve done this before i would highly value your ideas and knowladge!
how did you re align the hull perfectly? that was the whole reason for this contraption i dreamed up?
thanks,
oops
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-23-2007, 08:35 AM
the1much's Avatar
the1much the1much is offline
huh? hehe ;)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Rep: 547 Posts: 3,949
Location: texas
the biggest worry about doing it is keeping your hull from "going out(stretching)" like the tops of a V spreading out \_/,,, so cross bracing BOTH pieces is the HIGHEST priority. then re-attaching you'll need to use batton,,or anything long and straight,,start as far to the bow as you can with ya straight edge,, and run it back,,and when re-attaching,, you need to make a WIDE and LONG feathering,, and theoretically your new part should be stronger then the rest of the boat just because its newer material and un-stressed.,, and i dont know what shape ya boat has( a boat shape dummy) but couldnt you add the stringers and still add to the back instead of mid?
__________________
hehe ,,,,,Jim------>
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-27-2007, 12:23 AM
rwatson's Avatar
rwatson rwatson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Rep: 1059 Posts: 2,194
Location: Tasmania,Australia
You might like to look at a site advertised as

"Alternative method of boat building!!!!" at
www.bourneboats.com.au

he suggests the foam method, and has actually built a boat along similar lines,

From personal experience, foam is a very expensive and labour intensive way of mould building. Bits of soft wood and a hot glue gun will get you to the required shape quicker, then plaster over it for the final faired shape.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-29-2007, 12:43 AM
AroMarine AroMarine is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Rep: 10 Posts: 45
Location: Atlantic City NJ
If you are just following the lines back 3-4'. You could just build a wood form
screwed into the boat where necessary and supported out the back with simple framing. For 1 shot simple molds I use 3/4" mdf for ease of milling and relative expense, (cheaper than AC fir) and a nice smooth surface, which i wax and PVA.
Lay up right up on the existing transom or as suggested cut the transom out and extend stringers and deck accordingly.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-31-2007, 11:05 PM
Gilbert Gilbert is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Rep: 28 Posts: 511
Location: Cathlamet, WA
I like Aromarine's plan the best; straightforward and very little to go wrong.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-02-2007, 04:14 PM
grp.boat grp.boat is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Rep: 10 Posts: 46
Location: uk
Could you not make a mould of the last 6', release it from the hull and slide it back 4'. Cut off the original transom, and layup into the new hull mould..... Job done....
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-02-2007, 06:41 PM
the1much's Avatar
the1much the1much is offline
huh? hehe ;)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Rep: 547 Posts: 3,949
Location: texas
Quote:
Originally Posted by grp.boat View Post
Could you not make a mould of the last 6', release it from the hull and slide it back 4'. Cut off the original transom, and layup into the new hull mould..... Job done....
if you did that, your boat would have either a flat "dead" area, or a funny shaped boat. almost every boat has curves going bow to stern and topside to keel, adding on like that would actually give ya the "wave" effect. least thats the way my eye see's it happenin
__________________
hehe ,,,,,Jim------>
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-17-2007, 04:32 PM
ratrace2's Avatar
ratrace2 ratrace2 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Rep: 84 Posts: 542
Location: NJ USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by grp.boat View Post
Could you not make a mould of the last 6', release it from the hull and slide it back 4'. Cut off the original transom, and layup into the new hull mould..... Job done....
You would have to kerf the mold to make the geometry "fair". That could make a lot of sense if you have a good eye. I wouldn't try to do four feet, but You might try repeating the last two feet of the boat......
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
mould inquiry Redsky Boat Molds 2 11-15-2006 09:49 PM
i need to know how to make a fiberglass or composite plug or mould need help badly Islandboy Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 6 04-06-2006 07:17 PM
mould warping rturbett Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 13 12-07-2005 01:07 PM
Ask Help about GHS (GS mould) zzt9876 Software 1 04-21-2005 08:37 AM
need help for mould preservation mechatics Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 3 04-01-2005 10:56 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:55 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net