| ||||
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| Callin fibreglass Xperts....... Dunno if you remember my project but here is an update. I was ressurecting an old female deck mold to build a new deck for my hull. I have gelcoated and laid up the mold with a a 1oz csm and peel plyed it ready to do the epoxy balsa sandwich layup. The two returns on the coving in the coach roof shown in this image need to be filled in to allow continuous triax glass without bubbling. Also the cockpit seat drain side (inversion) can be filled in to achieve easier glassing. ![]() Can you recommend a filler powder for polyester (lightweight) to make a filleting bog around all the hard edges before I switch to the epoxy layup? I suppose continuous woven rovings would be strong, but too heavy? This will simplfy the epoxy glassing with triax's and kevlar. Cheers, Roly |
|
#2
| ||||
| ||||
| Roly, Q cells & some colloidal silica should do the trick, use much more of the Q babys than the colloidal, we'll usually batch up say a kilo of resin in a plastic bucket(get the ones with a flat bottom if possible) add the Q babys & power stir through a hole in a bit of ply or foam core(holds dust in) to our required consistency plus a couple of handfulls of colloidal to aid tooling off. Leave them for a while so bubbles enfolded by stirring can "float" out, we might do 5-6 of these to do a job & catalyize once the bog mix is on a bog board, remember to catalyize by resin weight in mix- the light fluffy nature make it easy to add too much & the Q babys seem to entrap heat through insulating properties, mix it real good on the board & spread thin to pop some more bubbles then bite off & apply with broad knife to corner & tool with radius maker- the consistency is very important for hold up & for tooling off- a dry substrate will scavenge the resin from the mix & make the radiusing tough- some times a quick light resin prime to area makes life easier, test your mix & radius for use & lineal metre, small radii dont use much. Also at times we'll put some roving into a really sharp edge to make stronger. Also be aware that really thick hot bog across a corner can pre release your molding. Sounds like your projects moving forward nicely. Regards from Jeff ![]() |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Fibreglass kayak building | lisa_w | Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building | 16 | 05-22-2012 08:26 PM |
| Using double bias fibreglass. | frosh | Materials | 9 | 07-30-2006 04:00 AM |
| Coating Fibreglass | Poida | Wooden Boat Building and Restoration | 3 | 07-27-2006 04:07 AM |
| rib or fibreglass? | petergcmc | Powerboats | 2 | 04-14-2004 01:33 AM |
| Fibreglass - how to | ChrisGibbs | Materials | 5 | 11-06-2003 07:58 AM |