Building is starting. Several questions in here. Answer any you like! :)

Thank you. This is exactly what I was planning to do. I don't know who suggested it or if I read online somewhere about it, but it seems to be the best way to double check a hand-layup.

 

Here's another question about the triaxial layup, if everyone doesn't mind:

When I go to do the actual layup, putting the 34oz triaxial on the corecell, how do I handle the bilge area?

I will have a 50" (1.27 meter) wide roll of 34oz (1150g) triaxial. I will have to hold it up to the bilge curve which also has a rocker curve as well. The hull profile in this section is narrower at the bow and stern and wider in the middle.

This isn't a question of wet out. It could be asked about the triax either wet or dry: How do I physically lay the fabric out to get it to sit nicely here along these compound curves? Also, how do I interface it with the next strip of triaxial? What is the most orderly way to lay it out?

*Remember, the designer insists on a fore and aft warp placement, so I will be unrolling the roll from stern to bow.

 

I,ve read of people using small spots of supper glue to hold the glass to the core. I,m not sure if it,s a good idea with only one layer of glass, if it soakes though and though you could have a weak spot with no epoxy. I dont rember if you will vacume bag , inf, hand layup, you could hand layup the bilge with light glass, 3 or 4 oz the night before you bag it and use the tackey cloth to hold the heavy glass in place. rick

 

Thanks, Rick.

I guess I might need to re phrase the question a little since I have no other answers and your answer, while helpful in hanging the glass in place, isn't quite what I meant to ask.

I'm wondering how a flat, square piece of fiberglass is usually pressed into a compound curve shape without creases forming. Pretend there is no adhesive in my question. An everyday example might be lining the inside of a cereal bowl with a thick napkin or aluminum foil. How do you do it without creases?

This is what my bilge section is like. It has bilge curve *and* rocker, so it's a little bit like a cereal bowl. My triax is square and flat.

 

I would say you will have to use two pc, slit the creases, overlap them and tape the joint and up to the slit creases with narrow tape. I dont see a good way to get the creases out, maybe one of the pros know. I would concern myself with strength in this area and not looks, more glass or more pcs with laps. I,ve been wondering about this as well so maybe someone will give a good answer. I hate to learn from others mistakes cat but I,m willing. have a good day. rick

 

You might have such a slight compound curve it will work. Do you already have the fabric? Here's a short blurb about dealing with compound curves, wet out and drain out of a heavy layup like you plan.

http://www.epoxymethods.com/reinforcements.htm

 

Some laser leveling, for those who were curious about it... Sam, I'm reading the link now.

Andrew, if you are reading, notice the one longitudinal batten toward the middle of the mold? It's the bridgedeck one you suggested putting in, allowing me to stop a layup at that point rather than cut out a big, expensive piece of the hull for bridgedeck attachment. Thanks for the tip.

 

Could copper staple-gun staples serve well for this?

 

Looking good cat, I wont be but another month or so behind you. The new wood floor is almost in , I just finished up the plumbing I tore up,I almost have the trim and door caseings fixed, then theres the painting. My next project is the boat build for sure. rick

 

I guess maybe it might work due to fabric sheer? I don't know though. I hope someone who has laid up heavy triaxial (20oz at least) in a complex curve can pipe in here and let me know if there are issues.

This is one of those things you can't test out easily ahead of time. Would really stink to find out there is a problems with it half way through the layup.

 

Oh no! Not a house! Houses get in the way of boat work!

 

A Good Day!

It was a good day today. The boat arrived! Now, all I have to do is put it together.

 

Now the adventure begins! Fair winds to ye!

 

Thanks, Hoyt!

A little false start. I have everything ready to go right now and planned to do my trial layups of the "frosting" bog between core and triaxial vs. neat epoxy.

HOWEVER... my damn Core Cell got stuck in Atlanta and isn't coming in until Monday now.

Why does it take so damn long to get things in ORDER for building a boat? I've blown through a year now just getting things in order and having a failed build attempt.

I wonder if anyone has ever took the time to document how much time they spent choosing plans, build locations, buying materials, coordinating shipping, putting up boat building sheds, learning techniques, reading, etc... as a percentage of the total project? I'm thinking it's close to 1/3 of the boat build.

So here I am, stuck in FL for the weekend without a thing to do! Damn. I even built my fiberglass rack today while waiting around for the foam that never arrived. There's nothing left to do but wait.... sigh.

Might as well pass the time with some of these!

 

I drew my boat up a year ago and it hasn't made it off the paper yet---and its only 10 feet long!