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#1
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| Build Question (s) I perused this forum back to 2007 or 31 pages before asking this question...found little direct help...so.... I have sent for the plans to a Malibu Outrigger. Basically a dory hull, modified crab claw sail and outrigger. Eighteen footer, slight rocker, flat ply. Basic idea in this old article, so you have idea... http://books.google.com.au/books?id=...page&q&f=false Scroll down a bit. This is simple, really, compared to the astonishing projects I have seen here. Here is my question: I can build as noted, in say 1/8 inch (instead of 1/4 inch) wood, and sheath the hull and ama, making the needed changes to the plans; Or, would I be better off setting up the stations (5 including stem and stern) and reduce the frames to accommodate a foam/strip base, and do epoxy layup, then fair before flipping the hull off the foam etc, and install the frames into the glass hull and go on from there to finish, using similar idea for the ama? (I planned to install the for aft hull stems as part of the station set-up incorporated as part of glass hull.) I understand this to be fairly basic stuff, and, though I have recond a number of boats, things change rapidly in the boat construction area and I fail to keep up. Boat building and sailing are a magnet to these old bones.
__________________ Leave a place better. Congress is the enemy! "All ya gotta know!" Dog. Winona. |
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#2
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| Plywood would be lighter and faster to build. You may think about using 1/4" ply and just coating decks and topsides with epoxy resin, glass for abrasion resistance on stem and bottom only if that. Sheathing the topsides/deck is exess weight with no real advantage on this type boat. You have plans, sticking to them for a proven design is good practice. Steve |
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#3
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| Hull Build Question Thanks Steve, As you might have surmised, I wised up and finally put the question where it belongs. Of course, your observation is correct. Thing is, the plans are near 50 years old and there are some things I thought to alter. The original boats were often built with construction ply and the mast was non rotating...spars etc seem to be ok, but maybe better if carbon... I was looking to make boat lighter and easier to sail...it is supposed to be 400 lbs all up, but I thought I could shave 50 and make it a bit more nimble, and will not be driving through big surf...I think, which is what it was designed to do well, and it does. Your idea about using the heavier wood with glass only on the beached parts or bottoms is sound and may just do that. The spars I think will be carbon and sectioned for easier travel, and ama arms collapsible in some manner. I should add that I have not received the plans, and perhaps they have been updated? I get the boat finished, will have to drive it down your way for some salt sailing, I used to live just south of Miami next to place called Viscaya...long time past. Much appreciated.
__________________ Leave a place better. Congress is the enemy! "All ya gotta know!" Dog. Winona. |
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#4
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| you may want to do yourself a favour and look up James Wharrams designs for easier, better performing and possibly cheaper solutions for this type of craft. http://wharram.com/hitia14.html |
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#5
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| Hull Build Question Yes, thanks, Mr. Watson. I have spent considerable time perusing that site and contributions here by Par, Tom Speer, Alan White and a number of others whose names slipped by for now. Fascinating, to say the least. Wharram. I bought Dierking's little Proa book and already picked up some very good ideas. When the MO plans arrive, it will be time for choices... I want this boat to be as near total improved as I can make it, including easy build, which will be hard, as the boat is so simple, but there are ways, I think.
__________________ Leave a place better. Congress is the enemy! "All ya gotta know!" Dog. Winona. |
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