Boat interior

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Guest, Sep 1, 2004.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    My husband and I are considering cleaning out the old head, but seem to hit a brick wall with information on materials and fixtures. Does anybody know of any web sites or books that would contain the information we are looking for?
     
  2. RThompson

    RThompson Guest

    I suggest two aspirin and a brisk walk in fresh air.

    Rob

    seriously now, do you actually want to replace it and its fittings, or simply clean it?
     
  3. guest

    guest Guest

    We would like to replace the walls, flooring, fixtures, the whole thing.
    Although, the "take two aspirin, and a walk" seems a LOT easier. :)
     
  4. RThompson

    RThompson Guest

    Hi Guest,

    Unless you really want to change the layout of the yachts interior, I would suggest not attacking anything that requires more than a screwdriver, sand paper, or possibly a spanner. I say that without knowing anything about your yachts type, condition, your skills and experience, how you use the boat, or the details of what you want to do :)

    Go down to the local hardstand on a Saturday and speak with some of the people working there on their boats. (They will be glad for an excuse to have a break) Ask them what they intended to do, how long they thought it would take, and how much they thought it would cost when they hauled out.
    Then ask them how long they have been there, and how much it has cost them. :eek:
    While you are there also notice the boats that were cut apart with best intentions and have sat for years after their carers ran out of steam and found other priorities for their time and money. :(

    However, there ARE reasons you may need to replace bulkheads etc. like rot, and/or delamination.
    Bulkheads, cabin soles, and cabinetry will often be designed as part of the boats load bearing structure. There was probably a lot of design thought put into size and location, so altering them must also be done with a lot of qualified thought.

    Replacing the head itself is a lot more straight forward. -buy a new one, install it as per the instructions. Make sure to follow USCG, Llyods (or whoever calls the shots for you) guidelines on heads, and through-hull fittings.

    I don't want to discourage you from your plans, I mean to suggest the scope of what you may be taking on. If you are aware of what you are taking on you are more likely to finish it effeciently and on budget.
    Sailing a boat that you can lay claim to having laboured on is a very satisfying thing. It is also great for your boat ownership knowledge when you know your boat so intimately.

    With regards to available literature there are many good books, it depends on your yachts construction, as to what book might be suitable.

    Good luck
    Rob
     
  5. guest

    guest Guest

    Thanks Rob,
    The "yaht" in question is a 65 foot fishing boat (shrimper layout). We plan to live on it. Unfortunately, we live in an Alaskan town of less than 2000 people. The boatbuilding is nonexistent here.
     
  6. RThompson

    RThompson Guest

    Hi guest,
    I thought I had replied the other day, but the post was not on the board so:

    Your original post says you want to "clear out the head", so maybe the boat has already been converted, a lick of paint and some new fittings is all that is needed.
    Or maybe you have a lot more in mind.

    How you go about refitting your vessel depends on many things.
    What is it made of - wood steel etc
    What do you intend to do with it - Permanent berth house boat, fair weather bay hopping, blue water cruising etc
    Is the boat still in its fishing trim, or has someone already converted it to yacht. (by yacht I mean non-commercial vessel)

    Depending on the state of the boat now and what you intend to do with it, you would be well advised to approach a professional designer to confirm the viability of what you want to do.

    There is a good chance that wood/epoxy composite will be the most suitable medium for you to use. Easy to use, fast, and simple.

    A good book on the subject is (considered by many a boatbuilding bible):
    Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction
    Published by "The McKay Press"
    About NZ$75 to buy

    Rob
     

  7. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    This isn't a tough project. What would you like to do?

    Installing a modern head in an older system that maybe has only a tank isn't rocket science (yet) though the USCG is trying to make it difficult.

    Tankage where there was none before can be a problem, but worked around (you'll have too)

    Make a sketch of what you'd like in a perfect world, listing all the features and cup holders you desire. Check the local (web?) marine outlets where you'll be able to buy the stuff you need.

    Soon you'll be armed with all sorts of knowledge you'd wised you never wanted to know, like discharge options, treatment options, "Y" valve options, pumps, vent loops, hose types, even the shape of the seat and my favorite, what a "MSD" really is, etc.

    Things to think about that don't get thought about enough by folks designing the coolest head afloat are:

    "getting sufficient air to the bugs" I know it sounds funny, but it ain't (trust me) An aerobic and anaerobic bacteria (little beasties) discussion will need be beat on. I recommend a combination of injected air and biological treatments

    For a pump, a good diaphragm style like the SeaLand or Whale pulverizer

    The best sea cocks you can afford.

    Install a tank monitor. You don't want to have to clean what's coming out of the vent, if you overfill the tank.

    Your size yacht can use and I recommend an electric head. It's much easier for the lubbers aboard and the current draw would be minimum for the total load in a 65' trawler.

    Freshwater flush, if you have the tankage to support this feature. It makes living with a marine head tolerable.

    Use a holding tank system with multiple discharge options.

    Check into the few manufactures that make compact type I and II systems that can be directly discharged within the 3 mile limit.

    Shower pans can be had in all the sizes that DON'T fit you space (figures) a custom pan can be made easily from "glass or several other materials.

    The shower and head should NOT share the same compartment. It's really hard to wipe if the stuff is all wet from the other half's shower a half hour earlier.

    Think small. The head can be a ugly place in a pitching craft. Make the walls and foot print tight to the person using it. Sitting on the throne, in a bucking sea is bad enough without the idea you may not have bracing room when the swell rolls out from under the keel. You should be able to brace against the walls. Showers can be more spacious as we generally don't bother if the sea is jumping.
     
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