Best way to join deck to hull of kayak?

[Grantman]

I've got a kayak design I want to build tooling for. But I seeking insight on the best way to join the deck and hull of a light weight composite carbon/kevlar kayak. I have a fair bit of experience building simple polyester tooling but have not done much with joggles and not split tooling of any kind with indexes yet. This mold for the hull will require a split mold. I don't see that as too big of an project. But how I should join the deck to the hull is my biggest concern.
Thanks,
Grant

[Deering]

Depends on the joint. Typically done with epoxy/glass tape on the inside if you can access it. Another way would be to have the top nest over the edge of the hull by an inch and epoxy or 5200 it.

Either way, make sure it's bulletproof. That's a high-stress joint on a kayak, and a failure could be disasterous (and deadly).

[Ssor]

On sail boats they often flange the deck and the hull, with an upturned lip onthe inboard side of the hull and an out turned flange on the deck. sealing the joint with 5200 and concealing it with a rub rail.

[Grantman]

From your responses it sounds like no mechanical fasteners are needed. I was thinking overlapping deck and hull lips made via a joggle in the tooling. But I'm not exactly sure what my laminate schedual is going to be. Thinking the tighter the joggle fit the better But would not be able to get the best fitting joggle with out knowing the layup. Do you think any makers use rivets?

[Ssor]

When I rebuilt my Islander The hull-deck joint was set with "pop-rivets" and glassed inside. I believe the rivets were there just to hold things together until they cound get the glass in place.

[Deering]

I've never seen any kayaks fastened together with metal fasteners. A flange lip on the inside would be a big nuisance for loading gear in the hatches - you'll want the smoothest joint possible on the inside to slide gear and drybags in.

The fit doesn't have to be perfect if you use a thickened epoxy - in fact with epoxy it's recommended that joints aren't too tight.

[Grantman]

Originally Posted by Deering

A flange lip on the inside would be a big nuisance for loading gear in the hatches - you'll want the smoothest joint possible on the inside to slide gear and drybags in.

Yes my thoughts too. That is why I'd just go with the joggle. Did I say flange, sorry.