Bandsaw blades for frp

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Long time ago some one posted wanting to know about the best cutters for frp . Diamond is always best and lasts a life time if looked after and kept clean .
I Had been the the composites show in Shanghai and picked up this brochure with band saw blades listed . Found it at last !!here it is

[tunnels]

heres the back page of the same book

[hoytedow]

I think that was Catbuilder's question. I'll crosslink this thread.

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Originally Posted by hoytedow

I think that was Catbuilder's question. I'll crosslink this thread.

Yeah was a while back ! better late than never !!

[hoytedow]

It might help the next guy.

[PAR]

They cost too much, so the project must be fairly big to justify them. I've used carbide blades and found a coarse tooth count much better then a fine one. They chip, but they make much less dust, cut quickly and can be resharpened.

[tunnels]

Originally Posted by PAR

They cost too much, so the project must be fairly big to justify them. I've used carbide blades and found a coarse tooth count much better then a fine one. They chip, but they make much less dust, cut quickly and can be resharpened.

EACH to there own . i have used both ! i prefer to use diamond always and have had the same blades for years and years and still get used but i look after them .
Band saw blades the same if you have the use for them they must be heaven to use . Theres even sanding belts for belt sanders there so thats a plus . hand sanding and never have to change the paper ! Thats got to be a plus also If you have the use then use the best it never wears out !!
Ask any women she will tell you Diamonds are forever!! even james Bond knows that !!

[Steve W]

Ive never used diamond blades but certainly a much better use than wasting a great material on useless jewlery. I use carbide circular saw and jigsaw blades and Bi metal bandsaw blades. I used to own a snowboard manufacturing company and we had a bandsaw which we modified to cut off the glass/epoxy flash, it was just a 14" delta with an inverted bowl in place of the table and a tank and pump so we cooled the blade with water soluble oil and we ran bi metal blades, the coolant extended the blade life and kept the dust down.
Steve.

[CatBuilder]

Now that I've tried all the advice and such, I found the simple carbide blade (the cheap one) that comes with the saw is the best.

What you need to cut composites is just big teeth that let the blade breathe.

STEVE!!!! What snowboard company did you own???

I was thinking of making my next one myself after all the fiberglass experience I have now. Wasn't sure how to get the edges to really stick well, but I guess they just do, by that metal part that sits inside the board.

Been snowboarding since this era:

[Steve W]

Globe mfg,we did our own brands, Globe and Swill but mostly private label, this was back in the early to mid 90s before most US mfg moved to Asia, i spent 18 months in Taiwan as the engineer for a Taiwanese sporting goods company setting up a large factory,designing all the machinery as well as all the product and training the staff. Much more difficult to build sucessfully than boats. The key to sucess in bonding the steel edges is to use a strip of rubber foil over the steel to create a slightly flexible interface between the differing materials, even though we use toughened epoxies its just not enough to deal with the amount of flex a board has to endure. If you ever get around to building your board pm me and i can give you all the tips.
Steve.