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  #121  
Old 02-02-2008, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grady View Post
When I started this project, I asked the regional awlgrip rep to come by and review the task at hand and to kind of give his blessing on product selection, application sequences etc.

There were a few spots where hardware was removed and left various sized holes and imperfections. Some of these were very close to one another (like canvas snaps) so I ground them down a bit to the where I could lay a small glass patch across a couple at a time then build up with epoxy. (I thought this process might prevent the holes from reappearing as they may had they just been spot filled)

The rep suggested that after I faired the area I should roll some high build on to the areas before I locked everything down under a coat of 545.

The product rolled out nice enough, but never flowed, and created a surface that had to be almost completely sanded off in order to be as smooth as the rest of the hull. ( now that said, let me take full responsibility for doing something wrong, possibly many things ) But I had occasion to use high build again, and opted to spray.


I think if you do your homework, and use the right reducers and the proper tools (good brushes and lint free epoxy rollers) you can get great results.
Grady,
Alright, from now on. I command that you put all materials that you are going to spray in a bucket of warm water 100 degrees before you--even--think about using it.
I bet you like working in 30 degree weather.....hahaha
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  #122  
Old 02-02-2008, 07:19 PM
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Guys, the high build is for people that are too lazy to fare and prep the surface correctly. My surfaces are fared and sanded to 240 before I roll and tip 545. I roll two coats of 545 before I sand. 545 is soft and sands easy with 325. You need to use the brushing Reducer, just treat the 545 the same as the top coat. Except it's a 1 to 1 mix with less (or none) reducer. You are much better off rolling the 545 even if you spray the top coat, because you can build a good heavy prime base quicker. Just remember that how you finish the 545 determines how your top coat will look. Buy stocks in 3M!
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  #123  
Old 02-06-2008, 09:06 PM
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What is he doing??????????????????????

Kaptin-jer:
What is that, are you sand-blasting something....and what is that big blue thing.......pressure washer?
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  #124  
Old 02-06-2008, 09:27 PM
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What are you talking about??
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  #125  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:41 AM
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http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/att...0&d=1200058679

THIS..............
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  #126  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:51 AM
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its a grinder heh
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  #127  
Old 02-07-2008, 05:57 PM
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The software in this forum allows you to zoom in on the pictures. Try it. You'll answer your own questions. When you can make out the symbol on the hat you are close enough.
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  #128  
Old 02-07-2008, 06:02 PM
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when i use that zoomy thingy,,,i have ta put post-a-notes on my moniter,,,it always seems like ya eyes are followin me kapt.
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  #129  
Old 02-07-2008, 06:07 PM
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...and you better belive it...I'm watchin' you.
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  #130  
Old 02-07-2008, 06:08 PM
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well they do say when ya want to learn from the best,,ya need to watch em close hehe
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  #131  
Old 02-07-2008, 06:39 PM
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Awlgrtip Paint:

Wow,
Nice paint job. brush and tip? or spray.......
Question: how are you supposed to paint with those stilts holding up the boat? Oh, by the way, I can't zoom.....
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  #132  
Old 02-07-2008, 07:32 PM
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roll and tip
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  #133  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:04 PM
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Theoretically, You're not supposed to build with primer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaptin-Jer View Post
roll and tip
Kaptin-jer,
earlier you said that you roll two coats of 545 because it's softer and sands easy. Theoretically, it has been my understanding that one should not try to build a surface layer with a primer, simply because it is softer and more maleable than the structures surface i.e. boat hull itself. It is this softer quality that makes the primer inferior in impact resistance. Thus, if you crack the paint, and it is easier to do with a soft primer substrate, you get more cracking and peeling in the future.
Additionally, I was under the impression that primer should, and this has been my practice, mostly sanded off, with it's only purpose to fill micro scratches, not imprefections. I recall your saying that some guys use 545 because they don't pay enough attention to fairing their boats, I'm not saying you are part of that group. I was just wondering if, upon reflection, you still endorse using two coats of any primer, and, if you do, how much do you leave.
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  #134  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:12 PM
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2 coats are fine,,and primer is ALSO used to give a uniform shade and color to the boat before top coat. if you sand most of it off,,you'll use twice the top coat to get a uniform top coat color. in fact awl-grip says 2 or 3 coats are fine.
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  #135  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratrace2 View Post
Kaptin-jer,
you still endorse using two coats of any primer, and, if you do, how much do you leave.
You didn't read what I said. I'll repeat myself. I said people that depend on Hi build primer Are not faring correctly. I roll 2 coats of 545 (no hi build) because I found that you sand most of it off to get a good finish and I start with 2 coats so that I don't burn through. The end result is a thin smooth prime coat. But thats what I do. You can paint any way you like.

I'm a little testy because the Panthers are losing, sorry
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