Advice for Teak Rubrail Replacement.

[Herb Morrison]

I am seeking advice on the correct process for replacing a damaged section of teak rubrail on my 38 foot sailboat. The rubrail assembly is made up of 4 separate pieces of teak. Each piece is approximately 14 feet long by 2 inches high and 1.375 inches thick. The 4 pieces are assembled to provide a rub rail that is 27 feet long, 2 layers thick (27' x 2" high x 2.75" thick). I am replacing the top, aft section of the 4 pieces. My main concern and the advice that I am seeking is, what process do I follow in order to bend the teak to comply with the shape of the hull and the bottom, aft section of the rubrail without damage (Splitting)? The beam of the boat at the forward end where the rubrail section is attached is about 11.8 feet and the beam at the aft end is about 7 feet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
Herb

[gonzo]

It looks like you are talking of the cap rail. Are you sure it is bent and not cut to shape?

[Herb Morrison]

Originally Posted by gonzo

It looks like you are talking of the cap rail. Are you sure it is bent and not cut to shape?

Gonzo, Thanks for your reply. My rubrail is about 15" below the the cap rail which is also teak. I have removed the damaged old rubrail and it is definitely bent to the boat as I previously stated.

Best regards,
Herb

[gonzo]

At 1 3/8" thick it should bend to shape. Try it first without forcing the wood too much. If you have difficulty, it is better to steam the wood first.

[Herb Morrison]

Originally Posted by gonzo

At 1 3/8" thick it should bend to shape. Try it first without forcing the wood too much. If you have difficulty, it is better to steam the wood first.

I have also thought of steaming, but have no knowledge or experience with steaming wood and others that I have talked with tell me that teak doesn't accept steam well due to the density of the wood's cell structure. Such wood working skill is a lost art locally here in Massachusetts. Can you suggest a good source/book that covers the steaming process? Are there any other tricks that might work? One idea that I am pondering is to prebend the rubrail in my cellar, slowly increasing the curve over time, hoping to instill a memory in the wood prior to the boat installatiion. Due to the weather, I have a good 4 months before the boat installation. Do you think this idea has merit?
Thanks for your help.

[gonzo]

Denser woods than teak steam bend well. For example, white oak. You can steam bend the wood to an aproximate shape and then install it. A system that works well and doesn't require a steam box, is to use a torch and hot water. Build a bending jig where you can wrap the piece of wood to shape. Then clamp one end and tie the other with a line and put some tension. It is better to cut the wood a bit longer. Soak the wood with hot water using a brush or sponge and heat it with a propane torch. Do about two feet at a time. As the wood softens and bends, take some slack of the line. Let it dry and cool on the jig, and it should be close to the finished shape. I hope this helps.

[Herb Morrison]

Originally Posted by gonzo

Denser woods than teak steam bend well. For example, white oak. You can steam bend the wood to an aproximate shape and then install it. A system that works well and doesn't require a steam box, is to use a torch and hot water. Build a bending jig where you can wrap the piece of wood to shape. Then clamp one end and tie the other with a line and put some tension. It is better to cut the wood a bit longer. Soak the wood with hot water using a brush or sponge and heat it with a propane torch. Do about two feet at a time. As the wood softens and bends, take some slack of the line. Let it dry and cool on the jig, and it should be close to the finished shape. I hope this helps.

Gonzo, Thanks for the great recomendation. I've never heard of anything like this process before, not that I'm that worldly or knowledgeable about boat construction. I'll give this a try.
You sound like a very cleaver guy.

Best regards,
Herb