Advice for a novice? Hardtop construction

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by bilgeboy, Dec 15, 2005.

  1. bilgeboy
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 157
    Likes: 7, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Boston

    bilgeboy Senior Member

    Hello,

    I'm new to the forum, came looking explicity for guidance building a flybridge hardtop for a Bayliner 32.

    I've read a dizzying amount over the past few days, E / S glass, CF, epoxy, poly, etc, etc.

    I really could use the help of someone who has done it before, trying to choose materials. I've got about an 8' x 7' area, weight is a big consideration, as I will have to build supports as well, and my boat just gets up on plane now. I would definately spend more for a lighter product.

    I think I need a thin foam core, wrap with glass/cf, smooth, and gel coat.

    Anyone who can help a novice will be repayed with nice pics of the progress, and alot of gratitude. I can see that this topic comes up, and I know it can be redundant for the pros, and I appreciate that all the more. I have until May, so I would like to do a nice job.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  2. Corpus Skipper
    Joined: Oct 2003
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    Location: Corpus Christi TX

    Corpus Skipper Hopeless Boataholic

    If your boat barely planes now, I'd go canvas/aluminum. Any composite top you build will be considerably heavier. You'll have increased windage as well, so keep that in mind. Might be best just to install a bimini?
     
  3. bilgeboy
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 157
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    Location: Boston

    bilgeboy Senior Member

    Good point

    Well, thanks for the speedy reply.

    Its not that bad. You did make me second guess the whole project. Judging by performance when full of people, I think 300-400 lbs would be ok. I would like to make it as light as possible, though, and like I say, I don't mind spending more on materials to achieve that end.
    I've got a biminy now, never cared for the looks...so...clothesline?! Recently developed several tears in last weeks snow storm - its dead.

    Mike
     
  4. NavyAM3
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 5
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    Location: Illinois

    NavyAM3 Junior Member

    Hardtop/materials

    I too wanted a hardtop for shade from the brutal midwestern summer sun.
    I have a 24 foot sport cuddy cabin and spend many hours on lake michigan trolling...

    I looked at many sites tops for welded Aluminum frames with glass tops and decided I could DIY this project. Being unable to weld I researched the fittings and found rather attractive shiny ones that were unobtrusive for thier purpose... Next was pipe. found schedule 40 2 inch ID,perfect fit.

    Next was a wood model on the boat for dimensions and bends to fit cabin contours. With careful notes I cut the pipes and pre-assembled it in my yard.
    I then polished each pipe section with rubbing compound in a rag. I drove the pipes with a drill to "power-polish" them to a mirror finish. On to assembly-
    After several fitting sessions and a trip to a benders shop I bolted it on, rock solid! I drilled and tapped the pipe inside the fittings 14/20 as the fittings originally had only a set screw to hold the pipes- I used 14/20 SS bolts to go through the fittings and the pipe with lok-tite to secure them.

    Last series of step was the canopy itself: I selected 1/4 inch marine grade ply glassed in. Glad I did, added to the rigidity with not alot more weight. drsigned it with a 2.5 inch domed crest for looks and rigidity. I marked it out to cover the helm area and to create drip edges outside of the cabin to the gunwales. Cut and sand top. Glass in and built up the aft drip edge to run water outboard of the cabin sole. Final step was 3 coats of matching paint before through tapping the top for final bolting.

    Over the winter I'll sew the 40 mil clear vinyl windshield and side windows to complete the project. I've got 7 yards of 54 inch wide clear vinyl now, and need the nylon reinforcing straps for the snaps and zippers...

    Through the 2005 season there has not been one jiggle in the frame or creak from the top-
     
  5. NavyAM3
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 5
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Illinois

    NavyAM3 Junior Member

    Hardtop/materials

    I too wanted a hardtop for shade from the brutal midwestern summer sun.
    I have a 24 foot sport cuddy cabin and spend many hours on lake michigan trolling...

    I looked at many sites tops for welded Aluminum frames with glass tops and decided I could DIY this project. Being unable to weld I researched the fittings and found rather attractive shiny ones that were unobtrusive for thier purpose... Next was pipe. found schedule 40 2 inch ID,perfect fit.

    Next was a wood model on the boat for dimensions and bends to fit cabin contours. With careful notes I cut the pipes and pre-assembled it in my yard.
    I then polished each pipe section with rubbing compound in a rag. I drove the pipes with a drill to "power-polish" them to a mirror finish. On to assembly-
    After several fitting sessions and a trip to a benders shop I bolted it on, rock solid! I drilled and tapped the pipe inside the fittings 14/20 as the fittings originally had only a set screw to hold the pipes- I used 14/20 SS bolts to go through the fittings and the pipe with lok-tite to secure them.

    Last series of step was the canopy itself: I selected 1/4 inch marine grade ply glassed in. Glad I did, added to the rigidity with not alot more weight. drsigned it with a 2.5 inch domed crest for looks and rigidity. I marked it out to cover the helm area and to create drip edges outside of the cabin to the gunwales. Cut and sand top. Glass in and built up the aft drip edge to run water outboard of the cabin sole. Final step was 3 coats of matching paint before through tapping the top for final bolting.

    Over the winter I'll sew the 40 mil clear vinyl windshield and side windows to complete the project. I've got 7 yards of 54 inch wide clear vinyl now, and need the nylon reinforcing straps for the snaps and zippers...

    Through the 2005 season there has not been one jiggle in the frame or creak from the top-
     
  6. bilgeboy
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 157
    Likes: 7, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Boston

    bilgeboy Senior Member

    Nice job, Navy (sorry I didn't see your name)

    If you can post some pics, I'd like to see, especially of the fittings.

    I have a 110V MIG machine, but it won't weld sched 40. That is some serious metal you framed with! I use sched 40 when making custom exhaust components in stainless, but could probably make do just fine with 10.

    Anyway, not a whole lot of thoughts on light-weight designs, but I think if I lurk around for a while I will learn a ton. More focused questions can often get better responses. This is certainly a unique forum.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  7. NavyAM3
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 5
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Illinois

    NavyAM3 Junior Member

    Mike,

    Yeah, the schedule 40 stuff is stout without a doubt! I was told it was schedule 40 and looked the specs for confirmation. The way I came to that size was to get a sample piece of the fittings, (sold as 2 inch I.D) and the go shopping for a 2 inch O.D. pipe to fit into them- Luckily the stuff I found to fit down at the local metals company had a nice hefty sidewall that wouldn't compress when I torqued the bolts down. I took it to the sales dask and was told it was schedule 40- A happy accident. I can now send pics, so look for some... BTW as for light weight I could lift the whole frame (without top) and move it around the yard at will. I probably could've moved the whole top and frame but it was too unweildly...

    Send your regular e-mail for a jpeg...
     

  8. bilgeboy
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 157
    Likes: 7, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Boston

    bilgeboy Senior Member

    You should be able to get my email in my public profile, but it is..

    bilgeboy1@hotmail.com
    I would also like to know what you paid for your pipe, resources you have found.

    I kind of regret posting this one, I can see it is a popular topic now reading through the old posts. It would be nice to set up a permanenet reference for this kind of job - it seems like a real popular entry level project into composites.

    Thanks for your help,

    Mike
     
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