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  #16  
Old 07-16-2007, 03:58 PM
blakey1973 blakey1973 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Location: wells,me
Update

Well here is up date and some pic so you can see my project. I found the transom had some rot so I am going to replace it with new Merranti A/B BS1088 two piecies of 1" . I have sanded half the hull ordered my epoxy and glass. just have to sand other half and start glassing. Will keep you posted.

The pics are from when I bought it to the point am at now
Attached Thumbnails
1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00513.jpg  1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00366.jpg  1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00407.jpg  

1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00432.jpg  1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00523.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 07-16-2007, 07:32 PM
mike steiger mike steiger is offline
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Hey Blakey,
I see your chugging along I bet your feeling a little itchy. Great to see your making progress. I think you going a little overboard with your transom thickness being two inches thick in plywood alone. If this were me doing this particular boat I would opt for two sheets 0f 3/4 AB or AC Fir ply with a layer of 1 1/2oz mat between for bonding purposes. You are using epoxy and this is a much better bond and water sealant than conventional resins. Your real strength comes from your outer and innner skin thickness, I would have both of these between 5/16-3/8 inch thick. You will encounter much more along the way and money saved now will pay for alot of other things later. As long as everthing is sealed up correctly (scuppers,transducers,ect) on the transom water can not permeate the core. I know much better way's than just using some 5200 sealant. The scupper valves on my boat are 1 1/2 inch diameter P.V.C. schedule 40 pipe. The O.D. was approximately 1 13/16. The hole that was drilled for the pipe was two inches, The pipe was then bedded in a very thick mixture of epoxy milled fibers and cabosil,this way the core is sealed and there is a perimeter of epoxy around the pipe. Whether you use meranti or what I suggested these rules should always be followed as any plywoodc core material will absorb water. Keep up the good work and any help I can give you feel free to ask.
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  #18  
Old 07-16-2007, 07:39 PM
blakey1973 blakey1973 is offline
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Thank you mike

I say one on each sheet because that is what is there now. So i just thought it would be best. and the out side skin is like 3/16 or so.
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2007, 07:52 PM
mike steiger mike steiger is offline
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Build up your outer skin with about 3 layers of 1808 that will give you about 3/16 of an inch, also put a layer of stitch mat on before you put the first layer of 1808. Over lap each layer a couple of inches into the sides and floor of the hull. You should also have fillets on the sides and bottom of the hull these can be done with resin thickened with cabosil. I use a piece of P.V.C. pipe cut on a 45 degree angle to do this. When you install your core you will have to cut a 3/4 bullnose with a router and this will match the fillets you create.
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2007, 07:55 PM
mike steiger mike steiger is offline
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Diameter of the P.V.C. pipe 1/2 inchI.D.=3/4 O.D.
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  #21  
Old 07-18-2007, 05:38 AM
mike steiger mike steiger is offline
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Hey Blakey,

Was there foam floatation in the hull, I know the U.S.C.G. regs require it in hulls under 20 ft. The foam will also help reduce noise while running. I see your up in Maine, we used to vacation in Sacco when my daughter was little. Time for me to go to work,take care and keep on chugging.
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  #22  
Old 07-18-2007, 05:21 PM
blakey1973 blakey1973 is offline
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Hi Mike

Yes there was flotation foam. Here some pictures of it it was saturated with water as you can see in one of the pics. I don't live far from Saco just down the coast about 20 miles In Wells.
Attached Thumbnails
1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00408.jpg  1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00418.jpg  1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild-dsc00417.jpg  

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