Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Electrical Systems
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-09-2010, 08:01 PM
Scott Carter's Avatar
Scott Carter Scott Carter is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Rep: 143 Posts: 130
Location: Annapolis
Stepped down conductor size

In installing a windlass I find that the #6 AWG leads coming out of the new Lewmar H3 windlass are about 4' too short to reach the power post of the old windlass installation. This is all about 25' forward of the battery, in the V-berth. The conductors coming from the battery/circuit breaker are #2 AWG, adequate for the max 12 VDC 110 amp load protection over that run.

So my conundrum is this:

Instead of having two power posts/junctions in the overall run like this:

Battery/CB to post #1 = 25' (#2 AWG)
Post #1 to post #2 = 5' (not yet run)
Post#2 to windlass = 3' (windlass pigtails #6 AWG)

I want to do this: completely replace the windlass' 3' factory leads with 8' ones of a larger gauge, but for space restrictions within the windlass housing smaller is better. #2 won't work. My calculator tells me that #4 is fine for the 8' run at the same load, which fits physically. But this, in effect, is reducing the gauge of the overall run from the battery to the load. To take this to an unrealistic extreme: as the run gets closer to the load the size could be repeatedly reduced (neglecting any loss at junctions, this is purely theoretical). A stepped, or tapered, conductor effectively? Thought I understood this concept hands down, but now that I'm overthinking it I think I don't really.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-09-2010, 09:41 PM
ancient kayaker ancient kayaker is online now
aka Terry Haines
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Rep: 1682 Posts: 2,818
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada
#6 gauge or heavier wire is OK for the short term 85A current draw of the H3 so #4 will be fine. The important issue is the voltage drop in the wires. That is 1V for both cases, assuming you run #2 gauge between posts 1 & 2, so there is no difference. In very hot weather it might rise to 1.3V or so which should be no problem.
__________________
"Boats are like rabbits; you can have one boat or many, but you can't stop at two" - A. Onassis
Boat designs: "a convoluted collection of discontinuous compromise" - Par
". . . ere the end, some work of noble note, may yet be done . . ." -Tennyson
Dances with Turkeys
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-10-2010, 04:10 AM
CDK's Avatar
CDK CDK is offline
experimental engineer
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Rep: 1316 Posts: 2,145
Location: Adriatic sea
In a closed electrical circuit, the current is equal at any point, so tapering a conductor towards a single load doesn't make sense.

AWG #6 copper wire has a resistance of approx. 0.0004 ohms/ft, at 100 Amps load the voltage drop is only 40 mV/ft. With 8 ft between winch an post #1, the total voltage drop is 16 * 40 = 0.64 V, acceptable by any standard.

The AWG #2 part can be left out of the equation, the voltage drop there is negligible.
__________________
Stupidity must be a virtue, whole industries, governments, even economies depend on it......
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stepped hull cioko Powerboats 11 10-16-2011 02:59 AM
Stepped transoms tkinak Powerboats 37 03-10-2010 12:27 PM
What happens if I increase the size of the boat by 30% than the intented size abrahamg Boat Design 6 04-26-2005 07:09 PM
stepped hulls HWL Boat Design 5 03-08-2005 10:49 PM
stepped hull Ryon Macey Powerboats 3 09-08-2004 11:28 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:54 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net