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  #31  
Old 05-05-2011, 11:32 AM
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rxcomposite rxcomposite is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cthippo View Post
We're talking about different things.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_rectifier
Okey, I see your point. I can understand the way you hooked it up. But why not just a keyed pin or color coded wire like red and black? You are losing 0.7 x 2 volt drop (the forward voltage drop in the diode) in the FWR.
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  #32  
Old 05-05-2011, 01:07 PM
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cthippo cthippo is offline
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I probably could have, but this seemed simpler and the idea of having to mess with it at the top of the mast again didn't appeal.
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  #33  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:10 AM
dazarooney dazarooney is offline
 
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Originally Posted by DennisRB View Post
AC lighting for at home or yachts on mains power or AC. They look the same as above but with a GU10 socket and run off 110-240V AC. After hearing about some excellent LED downlights for $150. I went and purchased 4 different brand and type GU10 LED downlights to test for around $12 delivered.

My house uses 50W 12V halogen and 240V GU10 compact fluorescent 11W downlights. I tried the 11W CFLs as an energy saving test in some areas. I was never happy with the dull light and grey colour these CFLs put out compared to the 50W halogens. Also the CFLs are take a long time to heat up when they are first turned on to the point where people ask what is wrong with the lights when they first use them.
Great post Dennis.

I just thought I would add onto your point about the downlights. I got some excellent downlights from here - http://www.ecoledlight.co.uk/led-downlights.asp. They were well worth the extra cost as my friend got some cheap ones from another site and they stopped working shortly after getting them.
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  #34  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:37 AM
MikeH007 MikeH007 is offline
 
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Also check into LED tap lights. No wiring. Very easy way to add lighting in hard to wire spaces. Especially good for emergency lighting if electrical system or batteries fail. Small batteries are easy to store.
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