Electrical problem on a 4W Freedom 160

[gonzo]

It could be a shorted condenser.

[shotgunsmitty]

And now I have another unique problem...Good thing is, the boat starts....here's what I've got going on:

First off, the ignition switch is fine. I removed it and checked it with a voltmeter. It does what it's supposed to do when it should and stops doing it when it should also.

The starter stays engaged. No dash lights when the key goes to run. When the key goes to start, then the boat will indeed start and the dash lights come on. After the boat starts and I release the key back to "run", the starter remains engaged, still trying to start the motor, although it's already running. I have to move the key to stop and shut down everything in order to keep the starter from burning up.

Bueller?....Bueller?

[gonzo]

It sounds like it could be the solenoid sticking. Does your engine have a second solenoid before the starter?

[shotgunsmitty]

Yes, it does.

Could I have wired it the "wrong" way? Perhaps put the wrong wires on the starter solenoid somehow?

[gonzo]

There is a red wire from the battery or main switch to the post in the solenoid. Another red wire from the solenoid to the starter.
The yellow/red tracer wire goes from the ignition switch to the small screw on the solenoid . There is a black wire from ground to the other small screw unless it is a solenoid with the ground on the housing.
Are you sure the purple wire is not connected to the solenoid?

[shotgunsmitty]

Seems that we were right. After removing the ignition, I did indeed have two wires backward. I didn't have the terminals tight on the battery, only "twisted" on so that they wouldn't move...seems they really like to be tightened with a wrench.

I put the headphones on and she cranked the third time. Left her idling for a while, got temp on the gauges and everything else seems to work.

We plan on a splash test this Sunday. It still has a handful of stuff not quite right with it, but for now, she starts!

[shotgunsmitty]

Once again managed to duplicate the problem...started fine, reached operating temps fine, and began to run it yesterday. Put a tube behind the boat, running along at a very slow pace, maybe 20mph, and then, at one point, the boat once again JUST DIES.

Both sides of the coil are grounded out, therefore no spark to the distributor cap. I disconnected the choke heater, pulled off the top of the alternator and disconnected the wires in there. I put a voltmeter on the + side and checked continuity to a common ground (bolt on engine)...here are some results:
Yes, there is a purple wire on the starter. It goes to dist cap. It goes to a "resistance wire" to the choke...there IS NO resistance, unlimited continuity when it's plugged in to the choke.
It goes to the alternator.
When I disconnect the main harness, the continuity (still on the + side of the coil) cuts in half.
With the harness connected, I climb up front and disconnect the purple wire to ALL of the gauges, then the continuity becomes open....no continuity. Still no spark.

All wires inside the cap of the alternator are hot with 12v at all times.
Worthy of note: One hot wire, the orange one, was disconnected by the alternator...uh...why would this be?

[gonzo]

The purple wire from the starter is to prevent low voltage at the coil during cranking. If your coil needs an external resistor, it should be marked on it. The purple wire from the starter bypasses it. The choke seems to be shorted, that could be the problem.

[shotgunsmitty]

Okay. I don't see any evidence of any external resistors, although the wire to the choke is called a "resistance wire" in the schematics.

I have some resistors that are the same spec as the resistor wire that I can put in line with the choke and see how well that goes if you think that might be worth a try.

Would a shorted condenser short out the + side of the coil? I don't know how that could happen (but I did want to address your suggestion about it above). Would it get going and then....Just....Die?
I mean, we were moving along nicely when it died, at a pretty good clip, and it felt like someone just reached up and grabbed the key and turned it off.

[gonzo]

You could try disconnecting the choke wire. However, you'll need to tie it open.

[shotgunsmitty]

What do you mean by tie it open? Just make sure that it doesn't contact anything and short to ground?

[gonzo]

You will have to hold it open with a piece of wire or cable tie so the engine doesn't run rich.

[shotgunsmitty]

Alright, looks like the condenser, coil, points, breaker, rotor....

FIXED IT!

She runs like a scolded dog!
Thanks for your help, Gonzo! I might have more for you.