Advice on Drafting Table and Planimeter

[Robert Miller]

Now "tooling up", as they say. Two questions please:

1. I have a nice drawing surface 32" by 60", but need to build a base for it.
I'd like it to be high enough to stand while working, alternating with sitting on a high enough stool with footrest.
So, how high should top surface generally be?
(I'm 5'8" if that matters, ... I guess it should.)

2. An internet search reveals several choices of mechanical compensating polar planimeters.
How to choose?
Would folks suggest a specific brand and model or two here, and perhaps note things they like or dislike about the specific model planimeter(s) they are using?

Thank you very much.

Robert

[gonzo]

Is your table supposed to be horizontal at all times or can it tilt?

[Robert Miller]

I could, I guess, build whatever sort of base I want. I had thought only horizontal because I can imagine pencils and other items sliding down or off a tilted surface. Are more experienced draftspeople using their tables in a tilted position very often? Is this substantially more useful?

Robert

[SailDesign]

Robert,
If you allow the table to tilt, it can make it much easier to do the lettering on drawings. But then you have to clean all the spline weights off before doing so (experience and sore toes speaking....) A lot depends on what you are used to ;-)
My last table was capable of tilting, but I never used it like that.
Steve

[gonzo]

I will post tomorrow a design for a tilting drafting table we patented about 22 years ago. It is balanced so it will stay in any position without locks.

[betelgeuserdude]

You can find Hamilton and Mayline tables, often with Vemco V Track machines, on Ebay. Keep in mind that shipping for one of these beasts can cost a whole lot. This also serves to keep the bids low, so if you can find one in your area, you may be able to get one at a decent price and then pick it up yourself. Also, search for "planimeter" to find K&E's, Lasicos, etc...

I paid $100 for my electric Hamilton with Vemco machine, and less than $30 for a "like new" K&E metric planimeter.

You'll be needing drafting film which is exorbitantly expensive new. There's usually someone selling sheets of 24"x36" 3mil single matt, or rolls.

Run a search for "drafting" to find templates, triangles, curves, electric erasers, etc... You can wind up saving a bundle.

DC

[edneu]

I bought an old Hamiton table for $150 but it had a small table. I got an hollowcore luan door and epoxied some wood on the bottom for stiffness and mounted this larger table in place of the old one. I put a barco cover on it and I have an excellent large table. I got a vemco drafting machine which I never use and have removed. I put a sliding mayline parrallel rule on it which I use for drawing grids etc. However many marine drafters do not tape the drawing to the table but move it and rotate it for ease of drawing and fairing.

I move it up and very little and really never tilt it. I think I would now be just as well off with the table on some kind of file cabinet or saw horses.

I have a LASICO Model 10 planimeter, you probably don't want the one with adjusting arm unless you are a masochist. It works well and is accurate but pretty hard to read the tiny vernier late at night. I bought an electronic roller planimeter for $100 on ebay, I would reccomend that highly for ease of use.

I bought two rolls of mylar drafting film for $80 on ebay. I found my spine weights on ebay but they don;t show up often. They are available from Nacnaughton YDS and Westlawn.


A really good investiment is a quality light like a Vemcolite, it has alot of light and stays where you put it. The cheap Office Depot lights with the magnifying glass and the arms with the springs are very frustrating to use. They always seen seem to droop.

Have Fun!