Weed eater engine conversion

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by Ward, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. Paraprop
    Joined: Oct 2009
    Posts: 15
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    Location: Thailand

    Paraprop Junior Member

    Long tail export kit

    This Kit is for the Honda GX200 engine, or the 6.5 hp clone engines. However for clone engines, in some cases the 4 bolts used to fix the coupler housing to the engine crankcase cover have to be changed to metric ones.
    No instructions available yet. I think it is self explanatory if you refer back to my descriptions on page 47 and 48 of this thread.

    cost is $205.- + shipping

    shipping to USA:

    Int'l surface registered $ 35.-
    Int'l air registered $ 85.-
    EMS with tracking number $ 110.-

    DHL Express (3 to 4 days) $ 100.- (add $15.- for insurance, add another $40 for remote area locations as per DHL classification)

    Right now I got 8 kits ready to go.

    thx

    Dan
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2011
  2. Mark Wo
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 143
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    Location: Minnesota

    Mark Wo Senior Member

    Explanation please

    Looking at your picture, let's see if I can identify everything

    Upper Left - throttle
    Below Throttle - don't know what the 5 screws and other piece is
    Middle - coupler, throttle cable, don't know what the springs are for
    Upper Right - this attaches to the Honda Carb or throttle plate
    Under throttle palte - don't know but guessing some sort of bushing
    Bottom of picture - 4 bushings with set screws to hold in place
    Bottom right - prop and prop nut

    So, we would need to fabricate a motor mount, get a 1.5" pipe with a steel driveshaft. We would then need to have that driveshaft machined on the end to accept a shear pin and the prop nut.

    How much more for the engine base plate?

    I thought at one time the whole kit could be purchased for around $400 including the engine but that shipping to the States made this rather expensive. Maybe I am mistaken.

    Thanks for putting this together. Nice kit.

    Mark
     
  3. rmenasco
    Joined: May 2010
    Posts: 40
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    Location: Florida

    rmenasco Junior Member

    I am interested in this kit. How much would it be with the engine base?
     
  4. Paraprop
    Joined: Oct 2009
    Posts: 15
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    Location: Thailand

    Paraprop Junior Member

    If you purchase the kit, there is no additional cost for the engine base and transom mount but the shipping costs do make a big jump.

    shipping to USA (kit + engine base+ transom mount):

    Int'l surface registered $ 80.-

    DHL Express (3 to 4 days) $ 185.- (add $15.- for insurance, add another $40 for remote area locations as per DHL classification)

    Also same applies for the handle. due to it's length, I have to ship it separately

    shipping to USA (handle only):

    Int'l surface registered $ 30.-
    Int'l air registered $ 70.-

    DHL Express (3 to 4 days) $ 75.- (add $15.- for insurance, add another $40 for remote area locations as per DHL classification)
     
  5. jb328
    Joined: Feb 2011
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    Location: michigan

    jb328 New Member

    erich what kind of prop id you use on your set up.
     
  6. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
    Posts: 86
    Likes: 2, Points: 8, Legacy Rep: 29
    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    Young's alum props. I think it's the T-10, but it could be the T-8. They spin opposite directions, so it's important to know the direction of rotation. I can't remember off the top of my head which one I used.

    Erich
     
  7. spede18
    Joined: Aug 2010
    Posts: 12
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    Location: Portland

    spede18 Junior Member

    Well guys I finally got around to starting on my conversion.
    Its a 31cc ryobi and I used 2 different shafts I had laying around to get the job done.
    The ryobi shaft I cut in half and then used a smaller shaft I had from a mac weed eater to go inside the ryobi shaft and also used the end piece from the mac.

    I took out the pieces from weedeater assembly on the mac shaft which was a sqaure adapter and the shaft which screwed into the hub. I used a piece of brass tubing that I had which fit inside the 2 bearing which I then soldered on the next size up from that which will act as a thrust washer and helps keep the shaft from slipping in side the bearings while running.

    I then used a drive shaft same as used on rc boats & a ferrule that connects the flex shaft and the drive shaft together. The flex shaft gets soldered to the ferrule then the drive shaft is heald in place by 2 set screws. This assembly rides inside the weed eater shaft just behind the hub.

    Then there is a drive dog on the end of the drive shaft that connects and holds the prop in place with a set screw and the prop is held on with a zuber nut.

    The prop I will be using is a 80mm prop it's a Prather 280.

    I should be testing it out soon and will post my results & some more photos.
    I still need to make a throttle arm and assembly to connect it to my motor mount.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    if that prop is 270 mm .....8 1/2 in its way too big for a 32 cc ..I think it will stall when it hits the water or burn out the clutch as the revs cannot get high enough for it to hold......but always ready to be proved wrong .....
     
  9. spede18
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: Portland

    spede18 Junior Member

    Sorry I typed it in wrong. The prop I'll be using is an 80mm prop.
    I do not have a clutch on this motor either.
     
  10. spede18
    Joined: Aug 2010
    Posts: 12
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    Location: Portland

    spede18 Junior Member

    Finished making the mount today out of a wheel castor.
    I'll be testing it out soon and will post my results and some more pictures.
     
  11. Alexzander
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: Russia

    Alexzander New Member

    Shipping to Russia, Moscow will cost how many
     
  12. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Control Group

    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

  13. bakewater5
    Joined: Sep 2009
    Posts: 8
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    Location: SE IOWA

    bakewater5 Junior Member

    6.5 angle & oiling

    First time poster, long time lurker. After removing the governor, I came to the conclusion that the 15 degree rule of thumb does not apply to mud motors. Please correct me if I'm wrong. My reason is that info came from a go kart web site. On a kart the engine is rotated 45degreas (as viewed from above). The splasher on the rod cap would be on the back side so tilting back would submerge it. Tilting forward lift it out. On mud motor the splasher is close to center in the crank case. I think it can take much stepper angle probably between 25 and 30 degrees. If this has been addressed in an earlier post I apologize. As I said PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. Here is a pick of two of my builds the one on the right is a copy of an Iowa made motor using there prop design. The other is my version of a thai with a hills 6.5x4 prop.


    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58523&stc=1&d=1309720619
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Mark F. CheneyM
    Joined: Oct 2008
    Posts: 12
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    Location: Bountiful Utah

    Mark F. CheneyM Junior Member

    engine oiling

    I have used both Kohler and Robin engines on my motors. Both the Kohler and Robin co.s sent people to my facility to see how I used their respective products. They were interested in seeing that my system held the engine in a nominally horizontal position most of the time before they would give me OEM warranty status for their respective motors. My system uses a compound UJ to give 12 - 15 degrees of angle to the drive shaft, depending on the model.

    Mark F. Cheney utahmarshmotors.com on the Great Salt Lake marsh
     

  15. bakewater5
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: SE IOWA

    bakewater5 Junior Member

    And what are your beliefs on energy loss tho the u-joint? If you dont mind me asking. Thank you for your replie.
     
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