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  #811  
Old 02-19-2010, 06:50 PM
jdc1111 jdc1111 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Location: TX
Updated plans

Mark, I really like that handle, it's a great solution. Tons of great ideas on this forum. I think I'm stuck until I get a motor in hand. Here's some updated plans what I'm looking to build.
I think I'm going to use galvanized electrical conduit, since it's super cheap, light, and pretty weather resistant (should outlast my engine). The 1/2" conduit is $2 for 10ft, and has a 5/8" inner diameter at Lowes. 1/2" black iron pipe is also 5/8" ID (brought my caliper), but a little more pricey. It's more rigid. I got some bushings 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD, think I can make it work.
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File Type: pdf MudMotorPlan(Draft v2).pdf (319.3 KB, 315 views)
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  #812  
Old 02-19-2010, 09:24 PM
muddin redneck's Avatar
muddin redneck muddin redneck is offline
DO IT IN THE MUD!!!
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
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jdc mud motor draft #2

jdc,
your design looks good, only one question. does your engine turn counter clockwise if so you have your idler sprocket on the wrong side. REASON: you dont want the idler sprocket on the side of the chain that does the pulling which would be the right side looking at the drive shaft. with the CCR the left side will be going down and it will have the slack on that side of the chain so that is the side you want you idler on. clear as mud right!!! any question you still have on the idler just pm me. (2.Tension adjusted via bolt/nut running through slot in frame, idler pulley freewheels on bolt shaft, nut locks the pulley bolt onto the slot when in position) does the idler you will use have a bearing in it. the idler sprocket needs one in it not just spinning on a bolt it will wear out. if not use something like this. http://www.mcmaster.com/#6663k11/=5w54tx one more thing not sure if the conduit will be strong enough to withstand the torque of the prop running through mud and weeds, i would use 1" x 1/8" DOM tubing with 3/4" od x 3/8" or 1/2" id bushings. not trying to be an ass just trying to give as much info as possible to help you make your decision
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  #813  
Old 02-19-2010, 09:41 PM
wac m trac m wac m trac m is offline
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I agree..you need to cover that chain..it's very dangerous being the number 1 reason and 2 it would be a pain having to clean the sprocket all the time.

A box with sealed bearings with solve that problem.
You can order you some thicker walled conduit in any size you need online..there a bunch of places to order from..find one near you. I would try to keep everything light cause it will get heavy real fast with all the goods.
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  #814  
Old 02-25-2010, 04:20 PM
csimms csimms is offline
 
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Location: Idaho
Thai/ Longtails

Quote:
Originally Posted by John O`Neal View Post
The cost of shipping individual units air freight runs approx. $275 per unit . It is almost prohibitively expensive. I have used my 6.5 hp unit several times now and it is everything I had hoped for . It has more than enough power for a layout boat, but I really enjoyed the ease at which it powers through heavy weeds. As you can see from the pics I posted, it swivels around 180 degrees and secures easily for transportation. The Thai style eliminates some of the elements incorporated into most American designed long tails (ie) the u-joint and the corresponding support structure for the drive tube. Both designs obviously work well and will get the job done . It becomes a matter of personal preference. I hope to have a unit finished soon that utilizes the 3 hp Honda GX 100 and a slightly shorter boom. A lightweight combination that I hope will fit nicely with layout style boats.

John,

Have you completed the 3hp Honda with the shorter shaft yet? Would be curious to see pics.

I have been emailing Paraprop figuring out options to build my new motor. I would like to build one using the 2.5hp engine from harbor freight and have a shorter shaft than what paraprop is using with his longtail kits.

I'm not even sure that 2.5hp engine will work with his aluminum coupler.

Any thoughts???
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  #815  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:00 AM
pistnbroke's Avatar
pistnbroke pistnbroke is offline
I try
 
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Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.
just a thought $599 6.5 hp lifan....looks like a left hand prop to me
Attached Thumbnails
Weed eater engine conversion-b-v5k9g-mk-kgrhgookjmejllmrfcubkrjz-4odq-_35.jpg  Weed eater engine conversion-b-v5lk-mk-kgrhgookjqejllmqu1cbkrj-cmptg-_35.jpg  Weed eater engine conversion-b-v5mlq-wk-kgrhgookiqejllmezt-bkrj-uy7vq-_35.jpg  

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  #816  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:06 AM
Wolfgang123 Wolfgang123 is offline
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where did you find that looks like the commerical 6:1 gear reduction 6.5hp
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  #817  
Old 02-27-2010, 05:16 PM
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pistnbroke pistnbroke is offline
I try
 
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Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.
on www.ebay.com.au i think 6:1 would be too much judging by the prop ..they usually go about 1: 1.6 to judge by the genuine Briggs and Stratton outboard
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  #818  
Old 03-01-2010, 09:21 AM
Wolfgang123 Wolfgang123 is offline
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can you post a link?
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  #819  
Old 03-01-2010, 05:27 PM
pistnbroke's Avatar
pistnbroke pistnbroke is offline
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There is no more information in the e bay listing ..the guy does not even say its a 6.5 lifan ..the pictures tell it all No prop pitch gear ratios at all just 205 cc
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  #820  
Old 03-04-2010, 02:48 PM
John O`Neal John O`Neal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csimms View Post

I'm not even sure that 2.5hp engine will work with his aluminum coupler.

Any thoughts???
The 2.5 hp engine will easily adapt to the aluminum coupler as shown below. The coupler is made to accept a 3/4" output shaft . The 2.5 hp engines sold at Harbor Freight are listed as having 5/8" output shafts . The remedy is a split reducer bushing and a stepped key-way. I purchased mine at Grainger for around $3.00 . It works fine. I used the 5 1/2' prop they offer with the smaller engine and it seemed to work the best. Haven`t been able to finish the Honda GX100 project yet, but hope to get to it soon.


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  #821  
Old 03-04-2010, 10:21 PM
JOBBER JOBBER is offline
 
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Location: carol stream, il 60188
PISTNBROKE motor

Quote:
There is no more information in the e bay listing ..the guy does not even say its a 6.5 lifan ..the pictures tell it all No prop pitch gear ratios at all just 205 cc
Looks like a nice "vertical" unit. I have been looking for any kind of small unit which is air cooled. I live in Illinois, USA. Using a water cooled motor before lakes are ice bound, has motor freezing issues. Do you have anymore info on it? Do you know if a long shaft version is available? B&S only makes a short shaft. Thanks
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  #822  
Old 03-05-2010, 12:36 PM
Mark Wo Mark Wo is offline
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Try this for an air cooled motor.

http://www.smalloutboardengines.com/...amouflage.html

Mark
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  #823  
Old 03-05-2010, 01:19 PM
csimms csimms is offline
 
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Thai/ Longtails

Quote:
Originally Posted by John O`Neal View Post
The 2.5 hp engine will easily adapt to the aluminum coupler as shown below. The coupler is made to accept a 3/4" output shaft . The 2.5 hp engines sold at Harbor Freight are listed as having 5/8" output shafts . The remedy is a split reducer bushing and a stepped key-way. I purchased mine at Grainger for around $3.00 . It works fine. I used the 5 1/2' prop they offer with the smaller engine and it seemed to work the best. Haven`t been able to finish the Honda GX100 project yet, but hope to get to it soon.


Thanks for the information. Do you have any idea what the total weight is of the 2.8hp set up?

Chris
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  #824  
Old 03-05-2010, 03:11 PM
John O`Neal John O`Neal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csimms View Post
Do you have any idea what the total weight is of the 2.8hp set up?

Chris
It weighs in at 63lbs .
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  #825  
Old 03-05-2010, 03:36 PM
csimms csimms is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John O`Neal View Post
It weighs in at 63lbs .
That is probably to heavy for my boat.

I was originally looking at the Duropower brushcutter conversion for my motor. Sounded fairly easy. After doing some research recently I found that Duropower no longer sells the brushcutters or the individual small engines for the brushcutters. The only companies that are making the brushcutters with the larger displacement motors are selling them anywhere from $800 to $1000.

If you still have your original Duropower motor, I would be willing to buy it!!!
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