Weed eater engine conversion

Oh, now here is a pheasant shot

I may not have as many birds but at least I have pretty women who hunted with us.

 

u lucky guy!! havent been on of late and it sounds like you guys have had a good season. my motor has got something wrong with it. ither the fuel has got the wrong mixture and if anyone has got a good mixture for a 2 stroke it would be much apreciated. on te other hand it may have been an over pitched prop causing too much stress on the motor.it will still kick but it wont start. has anyone had the same problem.

anyways see ya,
ranga

 

New Exhaust

So, what kind of troubles can I expect from this set up? Seems I fix one thing and screw a couple of other thingsin the process. This is just 1/2" copper pipe that was riveted and High TEemp RTV siliconed in place. Made the motor quieter when driving and put the exhaust backwards verse on my back or in my face.

 

Questions

I'm really interested in building one of these motors would like to do one of the 49 CC motors. But to be honest I have no idea what I would have to buy or do. If you bought just the motor from one of the scooter companies listed. Do you need to buy some kind of transmission? I know what to buy as far as mounted it from some of the other ideas on here and believe I would have to also buy a brushcutter handle of some sort (from Stihl). Of course a prop not sure if it was decided what the best was with the bigger motor. Not sure about shaft or driveline that is my biggest questions. Also I found a brushcutter on ebay a 42.7cc one for 199.00 what would it not be cheaper and easier to buy this as opposed to the motor and whatever other parts were needed. I have the plans that have been made avail on this site from orphan cowboy and others but with the bigger motors there is some other questions that I havent quite figured out. Much better with wood and household remodeling not good with motors and such.

 

Mini-longtails

Mark; Your exhaust looks good . Both of my motors have the exhaust exiting towards the operator. This appears to be an issue when hunting with the warm weather were having, but may be an asset when the temps are in the 30s. I will have to wait and see.
I put both of my motors to a real world test this past week. Thurs. I used the gear reduction version to travel to our hunting spot approximately a mile from the launch point. Everything worked great except the Johnson 3 blade prop didn`t handle the weeds as well as I had hoped. When we finished the hunt (8 Mallards) and started back, my buddy`s Island Hopper motor threw the prop. I towed him back to the boat ramp easily. The 5/1 reduction makes lots of torque. Fri. we did the same hunt and I used my direct drive Duropower conversion. The direct drive unit propelled the loaded layout boat with ease and surprising speed. I like this motor a lot because of it`s functional simplicity and ease of construction. This type of conversion is the easiest way to get the job done short of buying a Rickshaw.

 

8 mallards

At least someone is getting some ducks. It has been in the 60's still up in Minnesota and nothing is down nor moving. Only 3 weeks left of hunting as well. It better get cold soon or I'm heading your way.

Mark W

 

Here are some pre fiberglass pictures of the boat with the motor:







Mark, I like the exhaust, I had planned on modifying the muffler like *Ender* did, but I think a slip on unit like yours is the way to go. I also wish I could get a Duropower unit, having to find the tank was an issue, I ended up with a square 3/4 gallon scooter unit for less than $13.

I will be moving the motor back and using the motor as the base of my mount, and mounting the tank behind the motor. This will give me the needed room behind my head.

I have also found some more places to buy scooter parts.

John, on your reduction motor, you used a .250 wall 1 1/2" id aluminum tube right? Was there any fitment issues with mating it to the 1" drive shaft?

 

Mini-longtails

Cowboy; You are correct regarding the size of the receiver tube. After cutting the recess which will allow it to press over the seal boss on the scooter front cover, to center it. I then ran a 1" reamer through the receiver tube . This produced enough clearance to allow the drive shaft (boom) tube to slip into it. I secured the drive tube in the receiver with two 10/24 button heads.

 

hey caveman question if you have time

I have a 29cc 4 cycle troy built with a lower unit gear box like the one in your pics. I was wondering how you attatched the prop to the shaft that comes out of the gear box. It looks like you have a thick round spacer that the home made prop screws down against. What did you make that out of? I am going to do the home made prop as well as then I can mod the pitch as needed. MY 4 cycle is supposed to run at around 2800 rpm and have much higher troque than the 2 cycle ones, so do not want to buy a number of props till i get the right pitch. Also how long and wide is the metal you used to fab the prop? Thanks

 

does copper pipe just slide into exh?

After muffler removal, does the copper pipe just slide into exhaust pipe on these engines or is there a special bracket to fab? I am going to route my 4 cycle troy built exh to the back like this - did not want it submerged as them putting the fumes into water and that seems wrong if it can be avoided. Are there any back pressure issues to deal with that require the exh tube to be in water if muffler constriction is removed?

 

Hey

Right or wrong, I just riveted a copper pipe over the outlet exhaust tube that came out of the stock muffler. the copper pipe I bought just barely fit over the tube that was already there. A little RTF silicone on the joint, a good rivet or two and I'm good to go.

Mark Wo

 

thanks

I welded up the motor bracket - nice double pivot . I used some parts off aold pc tray that cops use in crusers. It is nice because it has teflon tensioners to allow me to adjust tension on pivots so that I do not have to hold angle as much from handle. I have a tube spacer that I will mount the prop against, so that is figured out. I am going to run the pull cord from the engine inside the handle tubeand have it exit near teh throttle handle so that I can just sit in my pontoon boat seat, and pull the line from there. I will keep you posted.

 

I just found the first mud motor ever built.All the info I have is in the picture.

 

clutch bypass

any ideas on how to bypass the clutch on a weed trimmer? I tested the mud motor and it generates a fair amount of thrust, but the clutch seemed to get hot. I have a troy built 4 stroke trimmer engine. Can you just bolt the clutch togetehr or do you need to remove it and then find some aluminum tube, grease seals, carrier bearings and all? I am using it of a 9 ft personal pontoon boat. What is your source for the aluminum tube as my local metal shop here in salt lake city did not have anything but steel

 

pic of pontoon with mud motor