Volvo 940 2.5 tdi diesel 6 cly 140 hp - me gonna maranise it!

[corglass]

Hi there,

I'm currently building a 19 Glastron speedboat that will be powered by a volvo 940 2.4 6 cly turbo diesel engine (140hp) via an Alpha one (Gen II) stern drive.

I'm completely new to this so I'd love some help.

I've already purchased the engine and would love some help on ideas to maranise it. Money is tight so any cost saving ideas would be appreciated!
At the moment, the plan is use the water feed from the stern drive directly into the engine, and then let that exit through a homemade wet exhaust. I'm hoping the start thermostat will sort all.

I head somewhere that you should cool the sump of the engine? Is this true?

Thats prestty much it, I'd love to know if I'm overlooking anything?


Irish Conor

[corglass]

Cor,

Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm, but marinizing an engine is a major undertaking that normally costs at least as much as buying a Marine engine to start with.

But to get you started you are looking at doing at least the following:

Adding a water cooled exhaust manifolds
Addine a marine water pump
Adjusting the carburetor tilt shim or angle plate (perhaps)
Adding a carburetor flame arrestor or "backfire" trap
Changing to brass freeze plugs (for saltwater use)
Moving the engine mounts
Increasing the alternator size (depending on current draw, and battery size)

And the following need to be checked for Marine applications
oil filter relocation kit
oil coolers
water cooled exhaust risers or elbows
various cover plates
various hose and plumbing assemblies
various brackets and pulleys
starter shaft extensions
lifting rings

Also you NEED to confirm that every single part on the engine, every pump, every electrical connection, every power take off, are sealed or rated to use in a gas vapor rich environment.



I know it is tempting to try and convert an old car engine to marine use, but in my experience unless you are doing it for the fun of the project it probably isn't worth it.

[corglass]

i pasted the above reply from my email cos I couldn't see it:
---------------------------------------

Hi Stumble,

Thanks for your comments. I'll try to answer them 1 by 1.


Adding a water cooled exhaust manifolds
I'll do this alright

Addine a marine water pump
I had planned on relying on the pump from the alpha one stern dirve?

Adjusting the carburetor tilt shim or angle plate (perhaps)
The engine is diesel, so no carbs. Will i need to modify the injector pump?

Adding a carburetor flame arrestor or "backfire" trap
No need, the boats diesel?

Changing to brass freeze plugs (for saltwater use)
It's only gonna be in freshwater so no need.

Moving the engine mounts
I've already done this, but good spot.

Increasing the alternator size (depending on current draw, and battery size)
I dont think I'll have much current draw so will leave as is.


And the following need to be checked for Marine applications
oil filter relocation kit
I might get away with leaving it as is, I seem to have plenty of room.

oil coolers
The car came with an amulinum oil cooler so will use that.

water cooled exhaust risers or elbows
Good call, I plan on building my own. Any idea where I could source drawings?

various cover plates
Agreed, again I'll build these myself.

various hose and plumbing assemblies
I dont thing I'll need to many, just water cooling from the stern to then block?


various brackets and pulleys
ageed,

starter shaft extensions
why do i need this?


lifting rings
Are these ESSENTIAL?

Also you NEED to confirm that every single part on the engine, every pump, every electrical connection, every power take off, are sealed or rated to use in a gas vapor rich environment.
No need, as the engine is diesel?


I really appreciate your help!

[CDK]

Corglass I wrote down my comments in the same email listing:

Originally Posted by corglass

i pasted the above reply from my email cos I couldn't see it:
---------------------------------------


Adding a water cooled exhaust manifolds
Buy those from Lancing marine or any other source you can find. They are essential.

Addine a marine water pump
The impeller pump in the Alpha one will do fine. Check the impeller, it has a limited service life.

Adjusting the carburetor tilt shim or angle plate (perhaps)
Skip this step. The injection pump works in any angle.

Adding a carburetor flame arrestor or "backfire" trap
No need for that either, just cover the intake with some wire mesh so nothing the engine cannot chew gets sucked in.

Changing to brass freeze plugs (for saltwater use)
It's only gonna be in freshwater so no need.

Moving the engine mounts
You'll need a single front support or one on each side of the engine depending upon the engine bay layout. Pay attention to the bracket which rests on the Alpha One transom housing, the shaft height is critical.

Increasing the alternator size (depending on current draw, and battery size)
The one you have will do fine.

And the following need to be checked for Marine applications
oil filter relocation kit
Only if the location clashes with the engine mounts.

oil coolers
Use the existing one.

water cooled exhaust risers or elbows
But these from Lancing Marine if they aren't part of the exhaust manifolds. Making your own doesn't pay off.

various cover plates
I woudn't know which ones.

various hose and plumbing assemblies
See below.


various brackets and pulleys
Nothing you do not already have.

starter shaft extensions
If the starter motor is block-mounted (I assume that) you need nothing at all., but if it is on the bell housing you have a lot to do.


lifting rings
Well, you could try to throw the engine in when finished, but lifting rings are really helpful.

Also you NEED to confirm that every single part on the engine, every pump, every electrical connection, every power take off, are sealed or rated to use in a gas vapor rich environment.
That of course doesn't apply!

What you also need and has not been listed is the following.

-An engine coupler instead of the clutch group that was mounted inside the flywheel.

-A return fuel line to the tank plus the filter used in the car.

-And if this really is a TDI engine, you need the MMU (motor management unit) and a wiring diagram so you can adapt it for its future life.

About the plumbing:
You now have the chance to do things right. Install a heat exchanger and make a closed cooling system. Then you can run the engine at the proper operating temperature, have no frost problems in winter and your thermostat will not fail because something gets lodged in the gap.
Use the impeller pump to feed water through the exchanger and dump that in the manifold jacket. Let the block mounted pump circulate cooling liquid through the block.
You avoid corrosion and save fuel!

[corglass]

Originally Posted by CDK

Corglass I wrote down my comments in the same email listing:



What you also need and has not been listed is the following.

-An engine coupler instead of the clutch group that was mounted inside the flywheel.

-A return fuel line to the tank plus the filter used in the car.

-And if this really is a TDI engine, you need the MMU (motor management unit) and a wiring diagram so you can adapt it for its future life.

About the plumbing:
You now have the chance to do things right. Install a heat exchanger and make a closed cooling system. Then you can run the engine at the proper operating temperature, have no frost problems in winter and your thermostat will not fail because something gets lodged in the gap.
Use the impeller pump to feed water through the exchanger and dump that in the manifold jacket. Let the block mounted pump circulate cooling liquid through the block.
You avoid corrosion and save fuel!

Thanks CKD for all the advice.
I think I plan on mounting a short FIXED shaft on the insdie of the alpha one that will cradle a carrier bearing. One end will be the female side on an alpha one to feed the stern drive. The shaft will be rigid, and aligned as best possible. The sftern drive should be able to retract in the up position.


On the other end of this 'short shaft' I plan to put a univeral joint, followed by a short shaft, and then another univeral join on th engine at the flywheel.


How does all this sound? Do you want me to do a diagram? thought so,


Thanks again,

Conor

[gonzo]

If money is tight, custom marinizing an engine is not an option for you. This is something you should've asked before buying. It will be cheaper to sell it an buy a used already marinized engine.

[CDK]

Originally Posted by corglass

Thanks CKD for all the advice.
I think I plan on mounting a short FIXED shaft on the insdie of the alpha one that will cradle a carrier bearing. One end will be the female side on an alpha one to feed the stern drive. The shaft will be rigid, and aligned as best possible. The sftern drive should be able to retract in the up position.


On the other end of this 'short shaft' I plan to put a univeral joint, followed by a short shaft, and then another univeral join on th engine at the flywheel.


How does all this sound? Do you want me to do a diagram? thought so,


Thanks again,

Conor

Well, it doesn't sound too bad, but the diagram looks like **** of course, I guess you know that.
The Alpha One drive shaft, when properly lined out, exits the gimbal bearing almost horizontally, so anything you want to add to that should better stay in line with that. There also is some axial displacement between the drive fully down and up, so something must be able to slide.

What reason do you have for adding so much iron when welding the proper bracket and replacing the clutch plate with an engine coupler is an inexpensive solution?
And doesn't the extra length put your engine so much forward that you cannot close the hood anymore?

[fcfc]

See http://translate.google.fr/translate...%26Itemid%3D56

Seems way cheaper and safer to use ford puma turbo marinized by lancingmarine.