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#16
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| Don My manifolds aren not linked with the water camber on the engine heads. They're fully seperated. (Is that what you meant?????). It just flows from the front in & rear out The heat exchange unit is something I'm gonna keep a close eye on since it is only copper. Though I've managed to suspend it on ruber mount to keep the dissimilar metals seperated. I was thinking about installing one of those "screw in" type anodes for the exchanger. One person said that I might not needed if I have rubber suspended. Cheers Zol |
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#17
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| Hi Zol, if that is what they are now that is salt water cooled!! when you change them to fresh water cooling you take it from a plug in the head to one end of the mainfold then from the other end to the fresh water circulating pump ,, if your risers are in the cooling circuit you will have to modify them also, depends what sort you have!! don
__________________ http://invertedvboats.741.com/ http://ivb-boats.netfirms.com/ |
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#18
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| Those zincs have to go on the raw or salt water side of the heat exchanger. They are a good idea. Your manifolds and risers are raw water cooled. I'm not sure I get the picture about the water coming out of the back of the manifold. Usually the water enters the end of the manifold and exits through the riser into the exhaust. There are some closed cooling systems that include the exhaust manifold. They require a huge heat exchanger. In salt water risers last three or four years. Most of the corrosion happens when the engine is not running. The hot salt water and oxigen are very corrosive. Flushing the engine with fresh water makes a huge difference. Mercruiser and VolvoPenta offer flushing kits that mix a neutralizing chemical with the water. I suppose there may be some aftermarket systems too.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#19
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| I was thinking that because I have suspended the heat exchanger on rubber it won't allow it to corrode & act as an anode. Cheers Zol |
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#20
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| There is salt water inside of the heat exchanger, that is what the anode protects. |
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