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  #1  
Old 03-15-2006, 05:44 PM
bcervelo bcervelo is offline
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200-250hp engine to marinize

Can anyone surrgest a suitable engine to marinize, im looking for around 200-250hp with or without turbocharger.
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  #2  
Old 03-16-2006, 02:33 AM
dimitarp dimitarp is offline
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You can use a car diesel engine, but you have to decide the cooling of engine. There will be a trouble for cooling
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  #3  
Old 03-16-2006, 08:11 AM
bcervelo bcervelo is offline
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Yes i was thinking that, do u know of a suitable make amd model, im not sure how many cars there are with 250hp diesel engines.
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  #4  
Old 03-16-2006, 08:44 AM
dimitarp dimitarp is offline
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Here is some cars Dodg RAM 2500 diesel 218 hp
BMW 330 diesel 220 hp
Ford Excursion 7300 dieasel LTD 239hp
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  #5  
Old 03-18-2006, 06:17 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
Auto engines do not have the "guts" to operate at a good percentage of rated HP , gas OR diesel.

You need to look at truck engines if you actually want 200hp for long periods of time.

Many have already been "marinized" , so a look at the MFG site will let you know what is suitable.

Here in the US the International DT 466 has not been "marinized" so great engines a year or two old are dirt cheap at the wreckers , and have std SAE bellhousings that will fit the marine trannys.

A turbo is a great idea if you will be pulling a real load at most times. They are very poor if you idle , or operate at very low RPM for cruise.

FAST FRED
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2006, 10:33 PM
Wellydeckhand Wellydeckhand is offline
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Look for engine with the most common and OEM parts with distributor easier to be found. Truck engine is far more reliable than car engine as they are build to take the punishment anyway.

WDH
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  #7  
Old 07-18-2006, 08:21 PM
The Island Man The Island Man is offline
 
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Location: Parksville British Columbia
Marinizing 1997 Dodge Cummins Diesel

Hi
I'm just in the process of marinizing a 1997 Dodge Cummins Diesel 6BTA
and I don't see anything to different to the Marine Cummins except a whole lot of dollars, mine was an automatic 180hp + a 50hp fuel plate = 230HP and I'm putting it in as an inboard installation, into an old fibreglass lapstrake Bellbouy 25' bought special for this fun project. I'm just finding out about the SAE bellhousing thing now, I think I want a SAE # 3 Bellhousing to hookup a Hurth transmission, but that's not a sure thing because I haven't got a transmission yet ? The Cummins seems to me to be a good choice, they are extremely durable and parts are everywhere, I'm going to use a marine bolt on raw water pump and I have a large heat exchanger and will run a dry stack, and as soon as I have everything working properly I'm going to run it on SVO, because obviously I'm not a millionaire and can't afford to dump 10 gallons of fuel an hour through it, so that's my 2 cents worth.

The Island Man
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2007, 06:57 PM
heavyhaulal heavyhaulal is offline
 
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duramax for marine

chevy's duramax diesel might be a good choice. find out about the engine on isuzu engine page. google "mother of all maritime links" scroll to "marine diesel"
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2007, 06:03 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
"Marine Cummins except a whole lot of dollars, mine was an automatic 180hp + a 50hp fuel plate = 230HP and I'm putting it in as an inboard installation,"

Those are the auto or pleasure numbers , The PP (prime power ) numbers are for the 6BT5.9 (M) are 104 @ 1500,to 122@1500,,, 122@1800 to 150@1800

The 6Bta5.9DN (tier 2) 100@1800 to 125@1800

From Workboat engine list.

FF
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  #10  
Old 02-07-2007, 01:30 PM
charmc charmc is offline
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There are some good engine recommendations here, most truck engines would make good candidates for conversion.

One basic but important thing to think of in marinizing, for any engine/transmission accessories bolted on or mounted nearby: imagine something has broken down and you are performing repair or replacement yourself, at sea or dockside. This will help you locate accessories for easier access, and select materials properly.

Some here may think this is most obvious and doesn't need mentioning, but I recall trying to reach a leaking raw water pump located below and forward of the engine, with only inches of clearance around it and a hot manifold to squeeze by to gain access. A transmission went out once because fluid leaked into the bilge through a corroded length of steel tubing that hung low enough in the bilge to be splashed frequently. Both of these flaws were introduced during construction by a well-known and respected builder of power cruisers and sportfishermen. I've seen similar things in desal plants I've commissioned, such as number tags for on-skid valves facing inward towards the center of the skid, because that's where the assembly tech stood as the system was being built. Ease of access after installation is sometimes ignored or never even considered in a design, and the lucky soul doing the service or repair gets the "benefit". Being both installer and user, you have the opportunity to make life a little easier for yourself.

Good luck, and enjoy your project!
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  #11  
Old 02-08-2007, 05:49 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
An inline will usually allow more room to work on it than a V style.

Taller and longer perhaps , but frequently made to be serviced from only one side.

FF
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:09 AM
fcfc fcfc is offline
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Are you aware of this :
http://www.lancingmarine.com/NHD675TL.pdf
http://www.frenchmarine.com/Product.aspx?PID=916&CID=82

Both around 10 000 £, ex VAT, without marine transmission.
A marine transmission for these engines, around 2500£, ex VAT.

And such an engine, at 200 hp, will burn around 40 l/h (11 gph).
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2007, 09:29 AM
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keysdisease keysdisease is offline
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exhaust manifold

i was thinking about the 6Bt to repower my cruiser. I'm not going to go there now but at the time I was researching fiberglass/ceramic coatings for the exhaust manifold. These coatings bring the temps down pretty far and I was then contemplating covering the coated manifold with dry exhaust "lagging" like on a turbo. An off the shelf heat exchanger with discharge to a spray ring just aft of the Turbo like a standard marine install bypassing the standard water cooled heat exchanger.

Simple with the only downside being the extra radiated heat in the engine space, which may not be a factor with the lagging. Anyone ever try this?

Steve in So Florida
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2007, 05:03 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
"Simple with the only downside being the extra radiated heat in the engine space, which may not be a factor with the lagging. Anyone ever try this?"

Lagging is insulation , and as usual the thick stuff is far better than the thin stuff.

Lag it yourself to see how the boat performs , THEN go to a big boat shop that offers the service and they will come and make templates and produce a REAL efficient and cool set of exhaust manifold and pipe covers.

Not cheap , but quiets and cools the engine space,well.

FF
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