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#1
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| Starting problem I have a 25 ft. sailboat with a Bukh DV8SLME inboard engine with saildrive. The engine has become hard to start in cold weather (say 40F or lower). I have been able to get around this by using a 120V hair dryer (on shore power) to blow hot air into the air intake while cranking the engine. I am reluctant to use starting fluid. A mechanic I rely on has suggested finding a way to heat the air intake off battery power. The Bukh dealer in my area did not reply to an email asking about this. Would appreciate any relevant comments or suggestions. |
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#2
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| Does it have pre-heaters?
__________________ Gonzo |
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#3
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| Quote:
If not, how about an engine blanket or block heater? I would trust your instincts and not spray starting fluid into the intake.
__________________ Kurt Hughes was right about this place. |
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#4
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| A block heater would work wonders. If a starting aid is needed WD 40 is very effective and does not harm a diesel engine. |
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#5
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| The Bukh should be able to start within 2 revs even in cold weather provided that a. the battery has sufficient cranking capacity b. the compression ratio is within specs c. the fuel has the proper viscosity (winter quality). Manual starting below 40F requires a lot of force, even with a brand new engine. If your tank contains fuel from last summer, you can add up to 10% gasoline.
__________________ Stupidity must be a virtue, whole industries, governments, even economies depend on it...... |
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#6
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| There was a device called a thermostart that went in the inlet and burnt diesel ....would not a small propane torch produce hot air when required away from mains power....photo under google but it wont load onto the site |
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#7
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| Starting fluid is NOT a danger when it is used ONLY as a cold starting aid. An engine your size will only need 3 or 4cc. Run a warm engine on ether to attempt to prime it and you are in big trouble. Near zero F most early engines will need a touch of spray or a water jacket block heater. A simple cold starting technique is to crank for 20-30 seconds , then wait 45 seconds and do it again. Usually the third or 4th time the engine will fire , with huge white smoke from the unburned fuel. The stop (no fuel) cable can be used for the first two cylinder warming crankings. FF |
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#8
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| Quote:
This is an engine in lawnmower style with only basic equipment, much like my single cylinder Chinese generator that never has a starting problem except with an empty tank.
__________________ Stupidity must be a virtue, whole industries, governments, even economies depend on it...... |
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#9
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| I am sure one would self tap into a suitable hole in the inlet manifold or extension though I understand they are not reliable long term ....propane torch thats the simple answer ..piezo igniton ..easy .. Have seen cylinder heads drilled for heater plugs in the pre conbustion chamber ....... |
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#10
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| So, these engines donīt have glowplugs?
__________________ Gonzo |
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#11
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| No, but I'm looking into fitting a glowplug or a block heater. Thanks. Davem99 |
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#12
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| My preference is the block heater. You can even install a timer if you choose not to heat the engine 24/7. |
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#13
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| Starting problem Thanks. I am pursuing this. |
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#14
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| I think block heater(s) and glow plugs would be the way to go here for a diesel in Hamilton. You'd want to use the glow plugs first and then, as the temperature drops, combine them with increasing durations of pre-heating with the block heater(s). You'll save on engine wear, starter wear and even battery wear. -Tom |
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#15
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| Starting problem Noted - thanks Tom. DM |
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