Injectors

[kenJ]

I've got a Universal (Westerbeake) M25xp in my sailboat. 3 Cylinders, 23hp with almost 1200 hours on it. Vibrations seem to be getting slightly worse over the season. The Universal Manual calls for rebuilding/replacing at 800-900 hours. It is a marinized Kubota tractor engine, the Kubota service folks say the injectors should be good for 24-2500 hours. The engine seems to be making slightly less power, but it could be my imagination and the vibration could just as easily be the motor mounts that are 17 years old. Can the different service cycles of the marine engine vrs the tractor engine really cut the life of the injectors in half? Are there "Injector Cleaning" fluids to add the fuel that actually work? It's less than $200 to replace them, but hate to spend if not really necessary.

[Kay9]

Look at it this way. Vessel assist will charge you at least $200 for the tow back in. So the replacement of the injectors is cheap compaired. Boat engines usually have a lower tolerance in replacement cycles due to the fact that you could be depending on them for your life, as opposed to a tractor. If your tractor breaks down you hop in your pickup and go get the parts fixed. If you sailboat is on a lee shore and you need that engine to claw off, and it breaks you are going to really wished you had spent the $200.00

My opinion

[masalai]

At least get the injectors tested.

Most major service centres should be able to do this.

Then they should tell you if they need servicing/cleaning/replacing because of, for example, a blockage in one of the small holes due to "muck" in your fuel. If you disconnect, regardless of replacement or whatever, CLEAN by flushing, the fuel line & replace fuel filters, after ensuring your fuel tanks are reasonably clean (open the inspection cover on the fuel tank). The amount of gunge you find could also be the cause. 17 years of storage and sitting with fuel (I presume diesel, or what you may call aviation-kerosene with lubricant here in OZ) but from what I read nearer to slightly cleaned "bunker fuel" in US.

First clean the tank & lines
next replace the filters
then do the injector thing & other servicing appropriate for the engine maintenance program. While you are at it check the shaft, bearings & glands/seals.

[Frosty]

If the mounts have gone soft and mushy--replace them. The injectors can be cleaned yourself carefully dismantle one at a time. New pintle assy arent so expensive. You then need to check how much pressure 'cracks' them, they should break at about 17 atmospheres which is 1000/s of PSI.

All you do to adjust is shim the spring!!!

[masalai]

Ta Frosty,
I could have done with that and more a couple of years (14) ago, somewhere outside the Easter Group, off Geraldton in a gale for 15 hours, flattened battery, furling genoa stuck full out (rope broke 2 times) not easy to see at night in a fairly sound boat but **** scared of proximity to reefs.

[Frosty]

Ah well you see that would'nt have happened to me. If Ive only one engine I carry spares. I wouldnt flaten the engine start battery and if I did have it wired in such a cockeyed way I would have generator or some back up.

I dont go near land at night and never anchor near reefs,--ever

As far as a stuck out genoa,--???? drop it on the deck.

[masalai]

Not my boat, owner on board, needed that sail to stay away from trouble, battery was defective & flattened by gps!???, no para anchor. got to Geraldton next day. Not appropriately setup or well found, lots of other faults, owner was well ticketed & experienced. I left

[kenJ]

Thanks for the advice. The tank was cleaned last season, filters are changed at least annually. I don't have the equipment to do the testing. Cost here for the pop test is about $40 new tip about $15. Easier to just buy new one for about $60. Westerbeake also replied that the book has been changed to reflect a cleaning and pop test every 800-1000 hours, replace as necessary. Motor mounts, shaft log and exhaust system rebuild are all on the list for winter projects.