what to do with the deck.

Hey jeff where do you source your copper nails and roves. Boatcraft pacifics website has the best price I have found so far. Some places want $4.00 a nail.

 

Here's a couple of places, we get rope from here but they do fastenings too http://www.classic-boat-supplies.com.au/
& get some from here Drive Marine, I think they are the same as Boatcraft
http://www.boatcraftnsw.com.au/

Otter nails used to do copper fastenings & we used to get them through a wholesaler - Seafarer marine not sure what they do now, used to be trade only & cheap, maybe not now
http://www.seafarermarine.com.au/fittings-fasteners/fasteners/nails/?p=1

Jeff

PS:....... $4...... lucky you put them in yourself

 

Excellent. Thanks for the links. Yes $4.00 a nail would make an expensive job out of it. I think that shop is where the staff wear balaclavas and carry shotguns.

 

These Styrofoam blocks look like they would make a good raft or bouyancy. Each round is 600mm x 600mm. I am thinking of making a raft out of them for my boat repairs.

 

Can I get some feedback please. Is the joint I have drawn suitable to join the new section of beam shelf in. If so should it be epoxied or use sika. I am planning on through bolting the top plank , Frames and beam shelf with 5/16 bolts and nuts. Next weekend I am starting on the repair. Frames first. I will use ply batterns on the outside with plank thickness blocks to get correct hull shape.

 

A scarf would always be preferable, although I've done a few half lap joints.
What you've drawn - or referenced as beam shelf is a little confusing(to me), the position drawn looks like the sheer clamp, sometimes a sheer clamp is set low as a beam shelf, what I'm more familiar with is the beam shelf set inside the sheer clamp.. as a shelf, not always employed though.
The joint in clamp/shelf regardless should span further & with the through bolts there should be nicely fitted blocking so when the bolts take up they actually take up rather than spring the planking in - in that area, also more tendency to split without the blocking. May just be me though, the workboats I apprenticed on had blocking the whole length between sheerplank-sheer clamp & between timbers/(ribs). these boats had fair dinkum sponsons & crusher & bolt up needn't crowd through tinmbers when blocking is in place.
I've read of others not liking blocking & sheer clamps set up to under deck referencing better ventilation, what ever works is good.
Also if scarfing- the scarf can be built/cut in the other plane.
Epoxy or sika would both be fine- seeing as you're doing a "short" repair some kind of glue is a bonus- if it was a "long" repair, some thick primer "luting" would be fine.
Try to make sure you get to stagger things out as much as possible/practical- the toerail/spurnwater & sponson/rubrail will assist

Jeff.

 

Thanks jeff. Probably is the sheerclamp I mean. You have the top plank and the beam that runs along on the inside flush with the top plank. Where it had bolts before it had block spacers to take the bolt compression.

 

I have been avoiding scarf joints because I am not real confident doing them but I suppose I can make some practice scarfs at home to get the hang of it.

 

Agree with Jeff, the half lap oriented as shown will be under "some" curvature stress and because it is cut "half" it's thickness abruptly (on both pieces) those points become "weak spots" and are subject to breakage. This is where the scarf joint is so much superior, it avoids these abrupt changes in thickness and spreads the load out much the same as the natural grain runs in a piece of lumber. They are more time consuming but with modern glues (thickened epoxy) it is not necessary that they are perfect. A super sharp hand saw and an even sharper 12 in. plus hand plane sure makes the job easier.

 

A power hand plane and belt sander can make an epoxy scarf in literally a few minutes. They don't have to be perfect, because of epoxy's gap filling properties. If you're finishing the scarf bright, then cut the feather edge off with a razor and under cut the receiving portion of the scarf, with an eye to a clean visible edge only. The rest can be hacked out with a hatchet, hidden under the joint.

A butt block is a less elegant, though easier option, as would be the Payson butt joint.

 

Thanks viking and par. But how do I plane scarfs on the outside of a floating boat. or do I use chisels and handsaw on the planks as jeff mentioned earlier. I am going to practice at home on some scrap so I get the hang of it .

 

I also need an answer on the ply sister ribs question. I have been told ply makes good laminated sisters is this correct.

 

I think it probably makes"convenient" sister ribs that conform easily, I've only ever seen it on one boat... better than not having the old timbers sistered & better than the "nylon" strips I've seen on one boat also, which was prolly better than not having them... with staino self tappers hanging out the inside too... apparently warmed up
& slid in.
I'm not saying don't do it but use some plastic film so you can "de-mold" them out of the spot & clean up glue then re-insert for fastening in... or spend some time on clean up, metho & rags+ gloves will tune up glue ooze.

** Given I no prior experience in actual installation of ply laminated ribs/sister & long term benifits........ some of the grain runs the wrong way- maybe.

Jeff

 

I imagine if they are laminated out of 1/8 ply strips they would be strong but like you say longevity might be a concern. Although well sealed should be ok. I have seen the old teflon strip trick to. and another boat that had steel ribs bent to shape where they kept breaking at the turn of the bilge. The only advantage I tbought ply may have is you could combine a sister which is wider above the burnt off section of rib so it carries that rib back to the sheerclamp as well. The ply strips are 2 inchs wide beside the rib and widen to 4 inchs at the burnt off section . Does that make sense.

 

Does anyone have experience with single pack polyurethane glues. Are they any good. purbond is 1 brand I have seen advertised. It foams as it dries.