what to do with the deck.

I've never used one for that, maybe lack of skill but I've only used them for demo style of cutting. With a scarf as discussed I'll just sit on a plank with a couple of chisels & mallet, maybe a paring chisel too, if I need to bulk out a fair bit of timber I'll use forstner bits in the blind ended scarf, I put a nib end into the blind end which could be really tricky with the reciprico, a router & jig set up may work but would take some time to set up. The plank end your putting in is easy to cut, having the nib on the end makes it much less delicate than a feather end & easier to fasten, a ply pad/washers & packing tape is handy & good to leave the seam edges clear so glue ooze can be raked out before it sets. I'd stretch the ratio out a bit too.
Quite possible to set up a flying scaf over the side for that job, a couple of planks, cross pieces set underneath overlength & padded to act as standoffs, a long bridal to each end & hang off halyards or bracket off the deck edge, or a small scow & fenders. nice to collect your chips or the green police will follow the trail...

Jeff.

 

All professional house renovators have earned their credentials on sawzalls. Possibly the handiest demolition and rebuild prep tool in the box. With a good quality tool equipped with top quality blades along with a bit of practice you should not have too much problem making a scarf joint . I recommend a heavy well known professional brand . When I say heavy I mean weight to counteract the action/reaction cycle. Another little trick when cutting scarfs is to fasten an angular cut sacrificial block (whose end is perpendicular to the scarf cut) to the material you are cutting as a resting table for the tools fence. Try your best to keep the fence tight against that block when cutting. Note Blades with backward angled teeth (as in a shark) tend to help while reducing the dancing around resulting in a much better cut. As well as being dark and highly visible lay out your cut lines on all four faces of the material if possible and constantly refer to them while cutting. Another little trick of the trade is to make your cuts at or close to eye level and from a comfortable stable platform. I.E. Not outside standing in a dingy

 

Thanks viking . Thats a good idea for a cutting guide. I can do the cuts from the inside and fit the new pieces from the outside.

 

The problem with reciprocating saws, especially with long blades is they tend to wander around a lot. The long blade with flop around and deep in the throat, near the stop the cut will be roughly where you start, but near the end of the blade the cut will be anywhere it wants to go, usually following grain and other defects in the wood. If using epoxy to join the planks, then not a problem, because you can cut it out with a hatchet and epoxy's gap filling will be hidden under putty and paint. I've done a lot of on site repairs and the butt block is the usual choice, for ad hoc repairs. To eliminate stress risers and if the frame bays are far enough apart to permit, I'll taper the ends of the butt block as much as practical, while still having enough meat for fasteners.

 

That definitely is a problem and requires a good stiff drink, no no, I meant to say a good stiff thick blade to keep it under control. Just measured one of my longer blades , 3/4 in. wide x 12in. long x 1/16 plus thick . Also as PAR point's out the cut doesn't have to be perfect if using thickened epoxy on the re build. One other little trick I neglected to mention is to make a handsaw starter cut , once the sawzall blade has a start they generally behave themselves. I should qualify here my sawzall log book totals out to 100,000 hrs. so I can almost do fine woodworking with the dam thing.

 

I did have a cheap one which was quite good till it died. I will epoxy joints with a timber pad behind for insurance.

 

If you're going to set out your scarfs longest plank on top & with no nib... to get a start on the cuts, a fresh $14.95-19.95-22.95 hard point saw from bunnos will cut that fine all the way through even with a short stroke limited by the timbers/ribs, mark up, sight & go.... I find it hard to cut my fingers off all the way through with hand tools

Jeff

 

Thanks jeff. I think I have a new one in the shed.

 

this boat has spotted gum ribs but I have to make sisters where they got burnt. Can I use redgum or jarrah. I am finding it hard to get spotted gum down here apart from t&g boards. I have found plenty of oregon though.

 

Hi Brendan,

You could substitute the timbers, I wouldn't discount the T & G boards though, the "ribs" are usually laminated, & the layers might make up what you need, here we've used some decking timbers resawn/planed to size required & the pre manufactured sizes come at reasonable cost plus you can pick the grain easier on planed material. Spotted when it comes green & with the Stickle "interlocking" grain bends great with steam. In your case I'd make a simple jig to steam & slightly overbend the sister sets to an average point of the repair, there's no need to glue the layers in the sister ribs. The original timbers can be rebuilt as well to match up for chainplate bolt up(you can do scarfs & glue but I wouldn't trust gluelines to aussie hardwood in the location of chainplates!), that's were I be taking some effort to do some simple back straps/flat bar that offer a load path down to undamaged area, just make neat
It should be pretty straight forward pleasant work.... down on the waterfront working timber on a lovely old boat......
for on site work a pair or two of triton superjaws are great if you have a level area of some sort they work as a saw horse/stool & vice at the same time... or horses & clamps go good too

Jeff.

 

Thats good to know. I will buy a few 19 mm t&g boards and cut them into strips. Although the bend in that area is only slight so I could just steam a small curve in the boards and use two 19mm layers. The ribs are inch and a half by 2 wide. I was thinking about a flat bar strap to. Do you think new chainplates fitted on the outside of the hull would be better. It saves having a hole through the deck and makes inspection easier.

 

I'd be doing the 2 x layers with a bit of bend steamed in, Chainplates to outside is simple & reliable, some like it some don't. still a small trap to inner face of sponson but can be done with clearance to drain & give small spiders somewhere to hang out..... Old shipwright joke when looking at poor fit up.... cockroaches have to live somewhere.......

Jeff.

 

I need to get the shape of the hole repair right. I don't want a big flat section. I am thinking of taking a longitudinal pattern off the port topsides and laminating the sister ribs on the port side to get the vertical shape right. Is this the right way to do it.

 

There's often more than one right way to achieve an acceptable result, you just need to choose your method. I 'd tend to run a fairing batten around the stb side over the hole & template from that, double checking to port is a good idea but you might find that port doesn't match/mirror stb. A couple/few nice clear grained battens of different thickness will indicate fair lines through the repair area, just panel pin them on, check by eye & template/spile off, plus deduct/ add thickness allowances. Don't be too concerned about adding attachment "cleats" of timber to clamp/screw temporary arrangements to.

Jeff.

 

Excellent. Thanks jeff. I hope to have it ready to start the repair after this weekend. I have deck removed from that area and only have a bit more burnt timber to cut out.