Smithers,
A few more ideas here, along the lines of some already offered.
The sketches you originally posted suggest the hull shape in the bow regions is somewhat faceted, much like an F-117 Nighthawk stealth fighter. (If I'm reading your sketches wrong, please correct me.) While this will hide you nicely from Soviet missile radar, any sudden changes in curvature (especially sharp edges) perpendicular to the water flow will really screw up the water flow under the boat. (Note that longitudinal sharp edges, ie. chines, are OK though.) Plywood bends quite well, and when bent makes nice fair curves- use this trait to your advantage and make all sharp kinks in the top (plan) and side (profile) views into smooth curves. You'll also find that it'll be faster and more efficient with a lower deadrise (ie, a shallower V-shape to the bottom); very sharp V-hulls are really only good in rough water, which a boat like this won't tend to see much of. If you want to do a slightly more formal 3D model, try Freeship/Delftship, it's free, easy to learn, and can calculate basic hydrostatic data as well as generating the cutting templates for the plywood panels.
As for power. Being in the US you'll need to check with the local coast guard about how to get a single-vessel capacity plate (in Canada you take some measurements of the boat, mail in a form and some photos, and the government does all the math for you). This plate will list the maximum safe power and crew/gear load the boat can take, based on a set of very well tested formulae that have proven reliable over time. My guess is that if you take your general concept and smooth out the lines, it'll go quite nicely with 10-15 hp and two crew.
08-24-2007, 08:29 PM
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