Waste heat recovery sytem

[Syed]

Hi,

I am unable to see discussions about recovering the waste heat energy at prime-mover's exhaust. May be, I missed such a thread or it is not feasible for boats. Please comment.

Syed

[fcfc]

Already done see:
http://www.polarpowerinc.com/product..._exchanger.htm

Read http://www.polarpowerinc.com/product...Safety%20Notes too.

[KenCo]

you can also tap into the engine (FWC/Intercooler types only) for Hydronic heating (usually baseboard type) w/ "hot water" rated gate or ball valves to shut it off when not needed.

a bit of common sense & some engine coolant flow knowledge w/ suction and pressure ports (theres always extra plugs on eng & WP) on the engine and water pump and it's a go.

personally, I would make it non-thermostat (just close down the gate valve to regulate) due to elec. selonoids needed and extra places that could leak.

[Syed]

Hi Dears,
Thank you indeed for the valuable information. I have some idea about the waste heat recovery systems, practiced in industry. Their usefulness / practicability on boats was my prime concern. Specially for the boat sizes, mostly discussed in this forum.
Regards,
Syed

[FAST FRED]

"Specially for the boat sizes, mostly discussed in this forum."

Most of the boats discussed here are yachts that frequently chose to dump the exhaust at the transome and use excess sea water from cooling the engines heat exchanger to cool the exhaust.

This prevents the FG from catching fire , but doesnt leavre much heat in the exhaust to use.

A dry stack is usually seen on comercial work boats , along with keel cooling. This cuts down on the maint and boosts the relibality , but is hard to accomidate with pleasure interiors.

Dry stack could have somthing as simple as tubing coiled arround the stack to recover heat for heating or?

FAST FRED

[KenCo]

Originally Posted by FAST FRED

Dry stack could have somthing as simple as tubing coiled arround the stack to recover heat for heating or?

FAST FRED

that's how a "Steam Jenny" (steam cleaner) or "Hot water pressure washer" works.


you could take a stack type exhaust and go up 1 size, i.e. 4" to 5" to allow for the internal tubing (more efficient). the number of coils would determine how hot (BTU's) it could get.


soft copper tubing could be used but custom wound Stainless steel would be better. fill the tubing w/ fine sand to lessen any kinks in the tubing then blow it out w/ air and then flush it well w/ water.