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#1
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| Tiny boat for canal cruising - any suggestions? Well, I'm still wanting to cruise the whole of the Nantes - Brest canal and still haven't done it, because amongst other things I don't have the right boat. So I figured I could ask for ideas. Here's some of the considerations I have to take into account:
The biggest problem though is the sealed locks which mean at times I'll have to drag the boat out of the water up a grassy 2-3m high bank, carry it round one or more locks, and then slide it back into the water down the same grassy bank. A kayak/canoe could have a small dolly to help me, a pram could have wheels or rollers built in like a lot of small tenders round here. So, I'm looking for ideas, if anyone can help? Oh and if it's cheap and quick to build that's even better - this is a very specific boat to very specific requirements so whilst longevity is always good it's not the most important consideration.
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#2
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| Just a though... lightweight canoe with one outrigger (which has a handle to the side so you can 'pick' up your boat), use the space between outrigger and canoe as a bed (trampoline style so you already have some flex under your bed) and then cover it by a cheap to buy IGLO tent (2x2 m ? with fibre glass frame just a few kg's). For simplicity make the canoe type hull as a flat bottomed sharpie. Use pedal power and maybe electric motor asisted with flex solar cells to charge when just pedalling and not using electrocmotor, that way you will have some juice to lit a light ... Just thoughts, no engineering involved at this stage..... |
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#3
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| This is a tough one . . . sounds like you may be portaging quite a bit of stuff. Here's a quick thought. Catamaran, with hinge points somewhere on the crossbeams. The hinge is made so that the pontoons fold down when the boat is lifted. Then, on the back of each pontoon, attach a bicycle wheel to the deck. When you take the boat out, the pontoons get folded down and the bike wheels are automatically in place to roll it. If you arrange all this just right, you should be able to keep all your gear strapped in place on the boat, and only make one easy trip around for each portage. You might even be able to do this and still have enough solid (or stretched fabric) deck area for a little tent. Propulsion . . . I haven't gotten that far yet. |
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#4
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| I like the trampoline/hammock idea sounds comfy and my sleeping bag will keep the cold out coming off the river and I like the wheels idea too, they'll certainly be portaging, luckily on hard packed gravel towpath so at least once I've dragged it out I can wheel it round. And the idea of being able to not have to unpack really appeals. Solar? Hmm it's Brittany in autumn, if someone could invent a rainpower system it'd be more appropriate. I really don't mind a little 2.5hp trolling motor though especially as I've just been given two. Couple of other thoughts for propulsion would be punting (the canal's not that deep) and a single scull (I know I've seen a Vietnamese boat where you sculled facing forwards). And of course there's always wind power, if I start at the Brest end and head for Nantes then the prevailing wind is behind me. So I think there's plenty of scope for a combination of these.
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#5
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| Maybe stow your gear in one or more waterproof hard cases that are bolted to the deck -- extra security. |
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#6
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| $100 I was looking though the $100 boats thread and there's plenty of inspiration there - one that lept straight out was the Lewisboats ScoutCanu mainly because I like the look of it as it's got a bit more shape than the boxy Liljons. tweaking it slightly so that the err "spreaders?" across for the gunwhales would give a nice flat bottom to sleep in with a tunnel tent over the top, and enough width (just) not to bash parts of me if I turn over. But it's just one idea.
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#7
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| Powered punt Selway Fisher Designs has to nice punt designs that would be easy enough to build and cruise in with 2.5 hp motor. The design also lends itself to putting a proper cabin on rather than makeshift covers of various sorts. If light plywood for the cabin covered by a single layer of fiberglass cloth, the boat shouldn't be too heavy. Similar to the Barrel boats, to hole can be drilled in one end so that the oars can be used as handles and a set of wheels installed on the other end should make the boat easily transportable for portaging around closed locks. The greatest problem that we all have, including kayakers and canoers is having too much gear aboard which adds to the weight, especially for long distance cruising. |
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#8
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| How about this boat?: ![]() I might build one like this only shorter (this one is 15.5 feet long but 10-12 feet would be plenty long enough) and with a slightly taller cabin so sitting upright inside is pleasant when it's raining. Yes you'll need a dolly or wheels to get around the sealed locks with a boat like this, but the comfort level might be worth it: http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/campjon/index.htm
__________________ Kenneth Grome |
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#9
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| Cheapest might be 2 canoes with a cat like setup between. Would break down easily for the portage and be spacious , yet EZ to push with limited HP. FF |
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#10
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| In case you don't catch the message on the group I propose you take a peek at this: it is called a Brier Creek Skiff and I did a plywood version for someone a couple of years ago. It looks funny but is actually has history and was used in a region of the Southeastern US. The Photo is an actual boat from an old movie (I don't remember the name and have since lost the original emal in one of my computer reloads). It is approximately 6" wider than a ScoutCanu at the sheer but only 2" wider at the chine. The bottom is 30" wide but still has the same paddling comfort due to the narrower aft end. Buoyancy is retained by deepening the hull thus keeping approximately the same volume. Most stores can go up front to balance your weight aft and you have a decent space in the 14 ft length to lay out without having the excessive rocker of the ScoutCanu (if you use the after part of the boat). As shown it draws 3" and displaces 365 lbs. If you built it out of 5.6 to 6 mm bottom and 3-4.5 mm sides with lightweight spruce framing you should be able to come in somewhere between 50 and 65 lbs all up. This is with Stitch and Glue joints using medium tape and a real light cloth on just the bottom, one coat of epoxy to seal and a couple of light coats of paint for uv protection. Steve |
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#11
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| Hi Alexlebrit, I spent a half hour sketching up a possible solution for what you are looking for. It should be self explanatory but if you have any questions please ask. I called the design Portagee after the character in Tom Clancy's Without Remorse and also because it seemed to fit! She is designed to be poled like the punts on the Cam at Cambridge University, or she could also be paddled, or you could put a sculling notch on the stern and scull her, she would need a skeg adding for this. I have shown a bracket for an electric outboard as well. The winch on the foredeck is to pull her up those steep grassy banks. David |
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#12
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| Briljant sketch ! would you need to front wheel ? if handled by hand, two wheels should be enough I think ? Saves weight... but as said, briljant ! |
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#13
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| Wow, first of all can I just say thanks to everyone, I'm overwhelmed. I love this one too, a boat with undercarriage, and even a winch (the thought hadn't even occured to me - and I even have a nice selection of scavenged bike bits too. I don't know that I'd need the whole fork I think just single sided axle off the brackets would work fine - it works for my bike trailer. In fact that gave me an idea, I've recently finished building a tiny folding bike, so I think rather than a nose-wheel (sticking with the undercarriage analogy) I'd go for a plug in tow hitch (I saw one recently on a fishing boat) and then when it comes to the three chains of closed locks I can just pedal round. And also I can pedal to the shops too. Now to the balsa.
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#14
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| Hi Alexlebrit and ASM, the bow wheel is for when you need to winch up a steep grassy slope, otherwise the bow will dig in and cause a lot of grief. Also when on the tow path you can just push the whole thing along, no lifting! With my bad back that gets to be quite important after a day of even moderate exercise. I would recommend the whole fork be used for the side wheels, as the boat and all of the gear could weigh in excess of 200 pounds and bike axles are not made for that kind of cantilever load. I like the idea of the bike to tow it but you may have some difficulty in the steep bank situation as the bike connetion to the bow will be, most likeley, a universal joint, not just a horizontal joint as the front jockey wheel I showed in the sketch. It may be possible to use some sort of a fender as a roller instead of the jockey wheel?? All the best with the project. David |
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#15
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| Put rearview(frontview) mirrors on row boat OR get one of the 'swap boat' jointed rigs where the you row facing forward. The mirrors would be easiest. I've seen little ones on narrow rowing sculls. |
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