TEOTWAWKI Boat

Just noticed your power options, Hoyt. When I first splashed her I borrowed and bought a few little motors to see what her limits were. I hit 23 knots momentarily with a $50 6hp Evenrude that weighed about 70 pounds. The transom is 6mm and the shock loads it was experiencing made that a one time event in the name of science. Handling gets a bit strange over 20 knots. She chine walks but stays pointed where you aim her, just sways around underneath you. What I found was that you want a light motor and minimal prop draft and a bit of over trim and anything else you can do to keep the nose down. My transom is set 18" forward of the end, And I still scooch as far forward as I can and still hold the tiller. You will need a tiller extension if you are mounting aft of that point or running more than a forty pound motor. You also need to deflect the water away from the leg of the motor. I scabbed on a pool noodle and the leg seals against it. You can see it in the photo. I built the dink in a three day weekend except for paint, so it was never intended to be a work of art. The aft floatation I pulled out of a dumpster. I figured it was temporary at the time. That was about seven years ago.

 

Hi Phil, I like your little Catamaran. Did you try a small stern wedge or a flap to keep the nose down at speed?

 

Guten Tag, Manfred. Do you mean to say a trim tab?

 

Hi Hoyte,You are right, there are some possibilities. May be something like this:http://www.great-water.com/pages/QL/QL_Trim_Sys.htm

 

Thoses would prove helpful on Phil's boat but space limitations preclude their use on mine, so I must trim the boat by clever placement of wife forward.

Ich muss jetzt gehen für eine Weile

Später.

 

Hoyt,

Your design would make a nice hydrofoil but I don't think we'll go there.

 

The rear 18" is a tab formed by extending the bottom out past the transom. It is 6mm ply with 1 layer of 6 oz glass top and bottom. It is free to flex and is not tied to the side pieces that extend aft. I can bend them up a bit when rowing and can wedge them in place, but best results seem to be to allow them to flex a bit. If I'm going more than a couple miles in it, I probably am carrying enough stuff to keep the bow down in a comfortable seating position. A passenger does a good job as well. I wish it had an inch more freeboard all around. That can be done with the three sheet layout no problem. I think Hoyt will wish he had a bit more as well.

 

I guess I should mention that when she's really stepping out, there is no problem with CG. Its when I'm barging through the anchorage that I'm scooched forward.

 

11 inches of freeboard can easily be increased to 16 inches by making sides 20 inches high instead of 15 but I don't think that will be necessary. Extra 5 inches can also be accomplished when the coaming is added to the cockpits. This is not a passage-maker.

 

"This is not a passage-maker" but rather a maker-taker.

 

Where will the crew sit? How will it trim and handle with only one (off-center) board?

 

Guten Abend, Hoyt, hope you are back again. My wife would not like to trim the boat for me. You have got the better part.
If you are interested, I have a small drawing for you with three devices to trim the bow down. A fourth possibility is to shape the bottom of the hull slightly hollow (concave) one third from stern. But then you can not correct it so easy.

1. Wedge 2. Fence 3. Flap



It is not a boat of mine.

 

Hallo, Manfred

Ich bin jetzt zurück. Meinem Sohn zu einer schönen Frau geheiratet. Es war ein wundervoller Tag und ich bin froh, dass es vorbei ist

dass Trimmruder ist eine interessante Idee.

There is a way I can use it should I need it. It could be a later modification but for now I will start simple. Thanks for sharing the idea for everyone's use.

 

Herzlichen Glückwunsch. Congratulations!

 

Vielen Dank!